› Forums › Repairs & Technical › Repairs & Technical for Golf & Passat cars › camshaft choices
what cam choices are you naturally aspirated folks using??
Can decide on a 268, 272, 276 schrick. I dont want too high a duration as the torque will be needed and would suit the carbs, 2l and syncro system better. I did have a 288 as it was a good choice for my engine spec, but that was for a 2wd car so i sold it and im still thinking about it
with syncro’s the exhaust is an issue when choosing cams, the std RHD exhaust is pants and longer duration cams will quickly start loosening power and causing idle problems as there is no exhaust scavenging to be had so keeping the valve open to long just causes problems at low rpm that normally be found with longer duration cams.
in theory a solid lifter head will help as the ramp angels on cams for solid lifter heads are generally much more aggressive so the valve get to full lift sooner stays there longer and shuts quicker so there is more time for air to get in and out with less overlap. id think about 266 but there is only one way to tell and that’s try them, with a better exhaust on a 2ltr up to a 280 would be quite manageable the idle would be a bit lumpy with those carbs but manageable. that would require making something like this tho
http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030080.jpg
http://diamondhell.com/images/rsgallery/original/P6030078a.jpg
268 seems to do me OK on a 2.0 bottom end with a flowed ABA head, although it’s crying out for more fuel from mid-rev-range upwards, to match the flow.
your manifold isn’t std rhd ether
ive got a rallye exhaust manifold and did have a stubby 3″ 2-1 downpipe back to 2.5″ straight through before it was alll stolen- well i still have the downpipe. Im planning to take it to see Ian at Pipewerx later to see what he can invent. Its a tight squeeze with the rhd cars
My brother is using a 272 with success in his jetta syncro but its never hads a rolling road set-up
and the solid lifter head is a later thing. Using hydro head as specced on my car post. Good to see i was thinking the right way for a change []
Having mucked about and butchered a Rallye downpipe to suit (and cut my floorpan, my advice would be unless you can weld, stop with the Rallye manifold and take the car to someone who knows their way around a welder and pipe-bender. Get a tubular manifold made up to suit.
Run one primary down one side of the prop, the other down the other and merge them under the prop. Seems to work lovely in Danny’s car.
if cable change is on the plans get the box in the sharp ish, that means the shift rod is gone so pipes can go ether side of the prop, don’t think DH enjoyed modifying the rallye downpipe to fit, if you can get 2ndries to somewhere about where the gear stick is all will be good and the cam will enjoy it
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that means the shift rod is gone so pipes can go ether side of the prop
Don’t forget that changing to cable also means the unused bracket on the steering rack, which is used for the shift mechanism on other Golfs can also be cut off, liberating further precious space on the way to the tunnel.
ok cool and ta. The cable change is ages away as i’ve invested too much in the current rod box.
I will get the exhaust made by Ian at Pipewerx, especially as he is responsible for many high quality cars over the years and he used to own dubsport
ta again!
what carb(s) are you running diamondhell?
It might also be worth looking at loosing the rallye manifold and having a complete fresh start. Does the rallye manifiold hinder the options?
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what carb(s) are you running diamondhell?
I’m running Digifant II injection, although I wouldn’t waste my time with it next time – I’d go straight for independent throttlebodies (or even just a single throttlebody with a potentiometer on it), running Megasquirt – at least that way you can set the injection up according to the engine’s needs, rather than hoping a pre-defined map will be right.
The Rallye manifold is a nonsense solution for a RHD car, as it simply isn’t designed to work with the RHD steering column – far better to work out the pipes from the ports than trying to work from the end of a manifold that insists the downpipe starts somewhere inconvenient.
Bear in mind this is just from my experience, it’s not set in stone.