- This topic has 247 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 6 months ago by
.
.thanks, i love photo’s so there will be plenty more! 😀
loom pared down to what i think i need. And a nive pic of all the surplus
im not noisy 😀 Splitting the engine from the gearbox was pretty hard, the previous owner has at some stage re used two mangled bolts and put them in the hardest to reach holes! (one in the bellhousing behind angle drive, and one in the angle drive bracket. Needed to chisel them round in the end!
So, now to bolt the angle drive back on the box and thats ready to go (sadly it has the usual one broken fixing, as they all seem to). Then just to remove the inlet and exhaust from the engine im having rebuilt and it can all get shipped!
Also got on with removing the rear engine mounts, the RH one is toast as expected, i think ill replace this with the hydromount off the 16v. The LH mount is ok but will be replaced anyway
The RH steering rack mount was knackered! One bolt had actually rotted through inside the subframe so was doing nothing! the other bolt was almost the same story. Also, after removing the rubber part of the mount i discovered a small rust hole in the subframe itself. it certainly does seem like a bit of a water trap that area? So, im going to have to remove the subframe and get it repaired, or buy a genuine new one for £400+…. a lot of money, but tempting……
That was going to be the plan, until the below happened…
Wanted to get the subframe off today, and found this amazing bodge! One of the subframe bolts had obviously had a removal attempt before, snapped, and then just been mastic’d back on!! 😀
This fixing proved to be the undoing of the subframe, The bolt passes through a sleeve, this has welded itself to the bolt. To the extent that the sleeve had actually detached itself from the subframe. The only option was to lever the subframe down, all this did was show why the sleeve was free… it basically fell the top of the subframe!
This left me with the leftover bolt with the sleeve rusted to it, a set of stilsons soon unwound the bolt, sleeve inc and that job was done!
Also found the reason for my steering rack being so wet, fluid filling up the boot that covers the steering column, so will have to remove that and get it rebuilt.
Have a new subframe on order..
Rack, downpipe and cat removed. I’m replacing the cat with a silencer, rather than muck around with the lambda i have got a UK PB gti ecu which doesnt have a lambda. That should gain me around 14 bhp by itself, Hopefully i will have a performance cam and chip which might see me hit the dizzy heights of 130bhp!..
For the UK I don’t need the lambda, plus I’m getting rid of the cat and fitting the GU front silencer. Meaning no space for the lambda at least until after the GU silencer, and that is far from ideal.so I don’t want to use it, I can’t speak for the chip but the engine/ECU will still have the knock sensor.
I’ll be doing it in stages anyway as I don’t want to ruin this basically brand new engine. So it’ll start with new engine (and a 268 cam, I presume that’s what your one is? [Is it new?] )and pb ECU.
Then I’ll run the engine in, make sure everything is set right, then add the chip.
In the UK there is no legal requirement for a cat or lambda on my age vehicle. Even with the cat fitted I’m still tested on non-cat emissions ratings.
Rear bumper removed, as i want to sort the rear tyre carrier. the whole bumper itself came off ok, and the main metal section is ok other than surface rust. The same cant be said for the bumper itself, the metal section has totally rusted away in places. Luckily vw still stock the country rear bumper, not cheap, but one is on its way.
