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.Now, thanks to informative threads on this forum i knew that the rear beam bush has a metal insert that needs to be knocked out of the beam, and not to panic thinking the beam is knackered. So, a few clouts with a cold chisel and out they popped! All off to be de-rusted soon!
Didn’t want to be crawling under the car today, so did some clean work. Mock fitted the rear calipers and carriers, all fitted well. Flexi a tad long but does work and fit.
Also built up the rear springs/dampers, so they are ready to fit. the dampers definitely needed doing, when you compressed them they stayed where they were!
Front section of exhaust off and rest of prop, man! The C clips that hold it to the manifold! God knows how I got them off?! And I’ve gotta get them back on at some stage..
As you can see from the pics, the front rubber donut on the prop needs replacing, and you can see the damage to the bolts that was done when it came off. Plus the corresponding damage to the angle drive flange. I do have a spare flange, but no idea if it just comes off with that centre nut, or if that nut does a bit more… Any thoughts people? The nut in the centre of the cv flange on the prop, do i just undo that to remove the flange?
Also while we are on questions.. the exhaust, I’d like to try and keep it and repair. Looking at the pics of the flange join, do you think this a job an exhaust shop would be able to do? Like cut off both flanges and weld new ones on?
I might have a front donut here (not sure but will look) p/n 1H0521127
I am sure that I will have a prop shaft drive flange here somewhere,p/n 02C409271A
btw regarding the transfer box drive flange, I have not seen that centre 12 pointer bolt before ever!
The exhaust flange, I think you might just get away with just a new gasket & bolts?
Gasket is Syncro specific P/n 191253232 but according to eBay & 7zap this will fit!
https://www.ebay.de/p/HJS-Dichtung-Abgasrohr-83-11-1797/1028791504
Studs are N 10028702 threaded pin M8X34 6
Nuts are N 90085001 hexagon nut, self-locking M8 6
I can get the front rubber disc here for around £80, so if a decent 2nd hand one can be got…. I do have a spare angle drive flange here attached to my spare box, when you say 12 point bolt, do you mean the 6 point nut on the centre? (Like this pic of my spare one) I’m hoping if I undo that, that the flange will slide off and I can swap over?
Saying that though my spare box is a 4z, and etka gives different part numbers.. so I think I will need that flange!
With a Dremel I and going to separate the cat from the down pipe, and will see what it looks like, but from my view parts of the flange are missing and warped.
I am/have considered fitting the cat replacement front box, but it’s the lambda. Would it work if it was in one of the downpipes?
Just had a little play for an hour, ‘shaped’ the spreader plates so they don’t foul the cheaper propshaft CV boots I got, should be ok now…
Also braved it and separated the cat from the down pipe, actually after a clean it isn’t too bad. By no means perfect, but with a new gasket may bolt up fine. As I’m going to a machine shop anyway to get the rear bearings pressed in, I will ask them for a cost to make two new flanges as I may need them to get the old studs out anyway.
Both flanges are the same actually, I think it may just be a bad picture misleading you.
Cheers for the link to the exhausts, they have been on my watch list for a bit now ?
In regards to the flange, if I undo that nut does it just come off? Or is it pressed in?
Oh, and I found some trailing arm bolts btw ? actually the same as a bolt on a T3
yes the flange is mounted on splines & will tap off or slide off when the nut is removed,
btw the transfer box drive flange nut needs to be torqued up to a massive 260 lb/ft
http://www.brokevw.com/syncro1.html
http://forum.vwsyncro.co.uk/forums/topic/angle-drive-flange-removal/
