holmeshi guys i managed to sort the loss of power issue with my carb with a good blow out of the carb with an air line now i have another problem, in the morning when cold i pull the choke out and the car starts but has to be reved to get it to stay at 2000rpm, i then drive to work and usually uptill now that is, i could put the choke in and the car would idle fine at 850rpm but now the car wont idle even when warmer it idles sometimes eratically between 250rpm(or not at all) and 1500rpm. also when driving, when i shift gear and press the clutch between gears the revs drop like a stone not like a usual slow drop but a very sharp drop. iam thinking an air leak but not 100% sure any ideas?
Chris SCheck your idle jet & blow it through, it is possibly blocked again,
or does this problem only happen when cold?
chazI think chris has already said this but, you really need to take it to bits, and get all the sh1t out of the bowl it only takes an hour or so, and is not difficult. Mine was playing up a while ago and after using a track pump to clear it 4+ times a day, for a week, I’d had enough and took it to bits, and found a little bit of blue sealant floating around, sorted
holmesonly happens when cold, i turned the ignition on but not starting the engine, i was under the assumption that the carb heater would start to warm up but it didnt is this right?
Chris SThe Weber doesn’t have a carb heater as is doesn’t need one, the only intake heater you now have is the hedgehog mounted under the manifold.
But given the car/carb history I would think it is another fuel blockage.
I would suggest that you dismantle the choke and clean (blow) the air & fuel passages out.
btw, you are running the standard VW air filter assembly with a exhaust manifold hot air intake and not a pancake filter arn’t you?
A pancake filter will cause carb icing and give similar problems as you have now!
holmesthe hedgehog is what i meant it doesnt feel like its getting warm. i dont have a panel filter, i had one on my old golf and got the carb icing hence why i dont use one now.
Chris SThe hedgehog should stay on until the coolant reaches (I think) 70 degrees, so it may be worth making sure that you have power going to it with the ignition on.
holmeshow hot is it supposed to get. and is it instant heat.
Chris SThe short answer is ‘I dont know’! but it must be reasonably fast, as for the heat I think I read somewhere that it warms by vibration or ultrasound or something like that, let me check it up for you.
Chris SHere you are,
http://www.ruddies.business.t-online.de/2eecheckGB.htm
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4401089.html
Temperature Senders:
At the front of the engine block there are 2 temperature senders, red & grey. The red sender controlls the autochoke, the grey controls the inlet manifold preheater. When the engine is cold these should pass current, when the engine has warmed up they should stop passing current. You can test units from the scrap yard by putting them in a tray filled with boiling water (just immerse the metal bit at the bottom!) to make sure they switch off correctly
Check intake manifold preheater (hedgehog), Disconnect thermoswitch in coolant circuit and energize hedgehog. Within 2 min 120°C must be achieved.
Check that the flexible duct from the exhaust manifold to the air filter intake is in place. Often the tin collector on the exhaust has rotted away and been removed together with the tube. If so-no matter, simply fit a piece of tube to the filter and tuck it round the back if the head so as to gather some warm air. Now make sure that with the engine running the control flap in the air intake is functioning.Pull off the flexible tube that draws cold air into the intake and with a mirror and torch make sure the flap inside the intake rises to allow the warmed air into the intake. Common failing here is the operating rod rusts away or becomes disconnected from the flap. If the rod is intact but the flap does not rise pull off the vacuum hose to the unit and check that vacuum is present (put the tip of your tongue to it). If not follow the pipe further back to where it joins the air filter body. A second tube comes round from the back of the carb to join adjacent to it, check that pipe for vacuum. If not the port in the carb body is blocked or the pipe is split.If so, join these two pipes and see if the flap rises. If it does you need a new thermac switch inside the air filter, if it doesnt the diaphragm has failed in the intake
holmesi will try tonight and let you know my findings thanks chris