Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos)

[VR6SyncroMark2]

Hi all me and 2 friends have just started a project to Make a neglected Mark 2 Golf Syncro into a snarling VR6.

We have the Syncro, the VR6 a complete Mark 3 VR6 Golf (All wiring dash etc).

We need lots of advice on what parts will fit together and where 2 source parts.

Main question at the moment is do we need 2 upgrade the drive shafts etc 2 take the 200+ horse power (by reading a few previous posts it looks like the answer is yes, an upgrade is necesary but whats the best parts to put on?)

Some one has sugested parts from a 4 motion, but am I better 2 buy the running gear from a Rallye?

Heres a photo of the Syncro as she currently stands.

Thanks

Rob
Leicester

[Chris S]

Please forget 4motion, its a nightmare to get working properly in a golf2. []

[VR6SyncroMark2]

quote:

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Originally posted by 90vrt

i have a mk2 golf with a vr6 turbo in it and i will be taking on the task of convering over to syncro. keep us posted on how everything goes. good luck

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Sounds like your project will be as complicated as mine.
The link below is from a Corrado being converted to 4 wheel drive looks like a hell of a job (the thread is about 15 pages long but is worth a look).
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36207&page=5

[Chris S]

Ok, after reading your post again, the only extra things you will definitely need are a VR6 Syncro gearbox and transfer box as well as a pair of Rallye drive shafts, optional for the driveline would be a Rallye propshaft and viscous coupling, in my opinion this is a necessity with a VR6 Syncro conversion due to the extra torque produced by the 6 cylinder motor, which will shred the non Rallye donuts in very short order , the rear diff and driveshafts are identical for all models,
For the front brakes you can transfer the complete VR6 hubs (5 stud) and brakes,while at the rear you will need a pair of Syncro Caliper carriers to clear the rear 239mm discs, the smaller brakes wont fit over the drive shafts, you can press standard front 5 stud hubs into the rear swing arms to give you 5 stud hubs all round, you will also need to fit a golf2 16v GTI master cylinder to prevent excessive pedal travel.
The VR6 front suspension is a direct swap into the Golf2
for the rear you will need cut down Passat syncro or VR6 Syncro springs as the standard Syncro springs are not strong enough,
I think the engine mounts may need fiddling with but Im not sure, mind you there are enough people on here who will know though!

[VR6SyncroMark2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris S

Ok, after reading your post again, the only extra things you will definitely need are a VR6 Syncro gearbox and transfer box as well as a pair of Rallye drive shafts, optional for the driveline would be a Rallye propshaft and viscous coupling, in my opinion this is a necessity with a VR6 Syncro conversion due to the extra torque produced by the 6 cylinder motor, which will shred the non Rallye donuts in very short order , the rear diff and driveshafts are identical for all models,
For the front brakes you can transfer the complete VR6 hubs (5 stud) and brakes,while at the rear you will need a pair of Syncro Caliper carriers to clear the rear 239mm discs, the smaller brakes wont fit over the drive shafts, you can press standard front 5 stud hubs into the rear swing arms to give you 5 stud hubs all round, you will also need to fit a golf2 16v GTI master cylinder to prevent excessive pedal travel.
The VR6 front suspension is a direct swap into the Golf2
for the rear you will need cut down Passat syncro or VR6 Syncro springs as the standard Syncro springs are not strong enough,
I think the engine mounts may need fiddling with but Im not sure, mind you there are enough people on here who will know though!

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Thanks for the info. very useful!

Q) I have a VR6 4motion gear box (6 speed) can this be used?

A) The short answer is, not without fitting the full 4motion set up including the rear diff, and also the 02J box is not an easy fitment in the Golf 2 chassis as all sorts of things need 1 off fabricating

[VR6SyncroMark2]

Had a good day today got lots of work done on the car.

Taken out the engine and gearboxn, no real problems. (pictured below)

Also got the interior completelty stripped so can now see how bad the rust is. (The dash board put up a bit of a fight but we convinced it to come out eventually).

Not actually as bad as we had first thought. (pics below)

As you can see in places the rust has gone all the way through.

Im told you can buy complete floor panels that can just be welded in?

[Chris S]

Yes you can get them from VW but they are not cheap at about 100 pounds a side! are they available in the uk as pattern parts? that would be a whole lot cheaper.

[Trev16v]

If it is of any interest to you, around a year ago I obtained from VW the brand new panels for the front jacking areas. I got them because one of my MK2s is in a similar state, but I wish to save it. These are the panels that join to the front of the floor pan and bulkhead underneath, that the jacking ‘dimple’ is welded onto. I got them for both sides. I suppose they might still be available. If you have rust problems at the front, then you might want these panels also. Of course, they weren’t cheap, at about £50 per side. The dimples cost just a few pounds.

I would be interested to know if you manage to get floor repair panels as well. However I think I will be able to get away with using repair pieces from a scrap MK2.

[ld50]

ooh good call! I reparied one side by making replacements from sheet but buying them sounds much simpler … doh! never thought of that

[VR6SyncroMark2]

I forgot to mention I also found a small patch of rot in the bulk head. [!]

Any ideas whats the best way to fix this? patch it or replace the bulk head?

Thanks Rob

[Chris S]

Patch it!
btw just out of interest where is the rot in the b/head?
apart from the lower corners the most common place seems to be right in the centre behind the exhaust manifold downpipe, why it should rot there as opposed to anywhere else I dont know, Possibly the exhaust heat? but I have seen three of them that had rotted through in just this position (including my own), as a temporary repair I just folded and stuck a piece of alluminium track plate over the hole using silicon! it actually looks as though it is a VW fitted heatshield, The motor needs to be out to give access for welding on the outside and I would remove also the plastic dash/heater assembly on the inside for as well for safetys sake,
I mean we wouldnt want an under dash fire would we!
not like our local VW garage foreman who was welding a plate under the wing on his own camper van and set fire to his wiring harness, fuse box and various plastic interior trim panels, oops, lucky it wasn’t a customers car eh?

[VR6SyncroMark2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris S

Patch it!
btw just out of interest where is the rot in the b/head?
apart from the lower corners the most common place seems to be right in the centre behind the exhaust manifold downpipe, why it should rot there as opposed to anywhere else I dont know, Possibly the exhaust heat? but I have seen three of them that had rotted through in just this position (including my own), as a temporary repair I just folded and stuck a piece of alluminium track plate over the hole using silicon! it actually looks as though it is a VW fitted heatshield, The motor needs to be out to give access for welding on the outside and I would remove also the plastic dash/heater assembly on the inside for as well for safetys sake,
I mean we wouldnt want an under dash fire would we!
not like our local VW garage foreman who was welding a plate under the wing on his own camper van and set fire to his wiring harness, fuse box and various plastic interior trim panels, oops, lucky it wasn’t a customers car eh?

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LOL
Cheers Chris, will proberbly have some one standing by with a bucket of water as well! []

and yes it is in the centre behind the exhaust manifold downpipe (perfect condition everywhere else)

Rob

[stephcasscar]

Hi fella, sounds a cracking project I hope you enjoy it,

Ive found loads of cracking parts from a German ebay seller, Auto Tellie Koch (sp)and have seen stacks of bits and pieces for the Vr6 Syncro’s which you may need.

keep us posted.

Steph

[Trev16v]

I’ve got a set of VR6 Syncro parts coming my way soon. Was going to use them to build my own 3-door Syncro but I probably won’t now, since I’ve bought a factory one…

[VR6SyncroMark2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Trev16v

I’ve got a set of VR6 Syncro parts coming my way soon. Was going to use them to build my own 3-door Syncro but I probably won’t now, since I’ve bought a factory one…

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Thanks for the words of encouragement.

What sort of condition is your Syncro in?

Got any photos.

Rob

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