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Well I asked and it turns out this is nowhere near as simple to adjust as it might be, but here goes anyway,
btw, this information comes with the warning
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME
1) Remove all the rubbish out of the car so it it at its lightest on the road weight.
(now this is where it starts getting tricky)
2) Fit a manometer (pressure gauge) into the brake line before one of the front brake calipers.
3) Fit a second manometer (pressure gauge) into the brake line before one of the rear calipers.
4) Bleed brakes so they work normally
5) Roll the car backwards & forwards until it is settled at its normal ride hight.
6) Push brake pedal.
7) Read the values on the manometers.
Adjust the regulator to give the following values
Front 50 bar adjust Rear to between 39-45 bar
Front 100 bar adjust Rear to between 60-66 bar
adjust by loosening the spring to reduce rear pressure and vice versa.
9) When values are within limits tighten lever arm onto arb.
10) Remove manometers & bleed brakes again so they work normally.
As you can see the pressure in the front brakelines can be up to 100 bar, and thats just short of one thousand five hundred pounds per square inch, yes thats 1500 psi, and not many of us will have pressure gauges that will safely work at those pressures and so for that reason alone and apart from any other safety issues its not a job for home mechanics,
quote:
Originally posted by ld50so try and put it on in the same position you took it off then?
I guess if the ride height doesn’t change and it works ok now (it did at last test) then putting it back would be the best approximation without doing manometer shenanigans…?
That does sound the best option [
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The problem is when you lower the ride hight as this increases the rear brake force without any extra weight in the rear to stop the wheels locking up, but given that you adjust the pressure by loosening the spring to reduce and tightening to increase it I dont think its exactly rocket science to road test and adjust so that all 4 wheels lock up together (or as nearly as possible together) or access to an mot type roller brake tester would be very handy as well,
I am quite lucky in a way as both of my Syncros have had ABS fitted so they sort themselves out when you hit the brake pedal
tbh I don’t think it’ll be a propblem since I’ll probably run the syncro at stock height.
I seem to be driving in a lot of areas which have crappy roads (generally known as “england” [
] i think) and I’m finding the golfs being low a bit of a pain…the sump on the 16v is a whole different shape than it started out.