require faster engine(info)

[holmes]

hi iam looking to keep the 8v golf set-up as i find they are fairly indestructable however i was looking to get the engine made into a 2.0litre, what is the best way to get this done, iam also looking to get the head done, any suggestions welcome regards cost is also a factor.[]

[Chris S]

The best option is a G60 block bored out to 82.5mm and fitted with the 2.0L 2E crank and rods and a slightly sharper cam

G60 motors are very cheap over here, especially one that has run a crank bearing or burnt a piston out, and as you are replacing those parts they really dont matter,

The compression reduction on the G60 motor is achieved by having a deeper cutout in the piston, the head volume is the same as any 8V 1800 head

The benefits are
1) It has all the Syncro mounting lugs.
2) It has the piston cooling oil squirters.
3) It has the uprated G60 oil pump.
4) It has the tougher G60 head.
5) It has sodium filled exhaust valves.
6) It has bigger injectors. (good for 200 bhp)

Here is my new motor spec

G60 8V motorblock bored and stroked to 2.0L and fitted with an Audi crossflow head and an Eaton Kompressor, Techtonics 268 cam, Audi S2 rifle drilled conrods, G60 Syncro outlet manifold/downpipe & no cat twin silencer boxes, G60 oil pump, Golf 1 radiator type oil cooler + G2 oil warmer and an aluminium VW/Audi louvered sump, a larger Golf 2 630mm long diesel radiator fitted with 2 speed (250/150 watt) twin fans.

This will be controlled by G60 Digifant 1 system, which also adjusts the ignition timing as well as the fuel and also has a knock sensor, all this will hopefully give a very smooth power output of somewhere round 200 bhp or maybe just a bit more + bags of torque,

As the Eaton kompressor only puts just over 5psi into the motor you can still run with a std 9.75 to 1 compression pistons, and it wont need an intercooler either []

[holmes]

hi chris, wot sort of money would you be looking at for this kind of set-up and what would the availability be. regards darren

[no such user]

Chris, how long has that specification been rattling around, being developed in your head?

It sounds like several years from that post…..

What about an 8V set-up without forced induction (an anathama to people like DannyP, I know [:p]) – it’s probably the way my Golf Syncro will go (next year).

Holmes, you’ll be needing a cable-change ‘box to handle that power.

Add another £500 for that and all of the hardware around it.

[Chris S]

quote:

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Originally posted by Diamond Hell

Chris, how long has that specification been rattling around, being developed in your head?

It sounds like several years from that post…..

A) Absolutely correct, 4 or 5 years at least from the basic 2.0 liter idea, it has been modded for more power as I have gone along and things (like the crossflow head which is worth about 15bhp over the non crossflow 8valver) have become available,

What about an 8V set-up without forced induction (an anathama to people like DannyP, I know [:p]) – it’s probably the way my Golf Syncro will go (next year).

A) a naturately aspirated 2E 2.0L tall block motor when set up like mine is good for somewhere about 145/155 bhp at not stupid revs, it also has the oil squirters and the syncro mounting lugs!

Holmes, you’ll be needing a cable-change ‘box to handle that power.

Add another £500 for that and all of the hardware around it.

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[Chris S]

Rough costs are

150 euros – I can get a suitable G60 motorblock for about that.
150 euros – Boring out from 81mm to 82.5mm + skimming & trueing the head gasket face.
200 euros – Second hand crossflow head.
125 euros – Fully recondition head with new oil seals, guides, recut seats, skimming etc.
250 euros – 2E crank & pistons, use std 1800(144mm long)rods, 2E rods are 159mm long.
175 euros – Complete engine gasket set with metal head gasket(for kompressor).
100 euros – G60 exhaust manifold/downpipe and cat assembly (increases power).
200 euros – New rings & crank bearings.

The total cost is about 1400 euros (950pounds)for a virtually brand new motor.
I would think my new motor has cost about 2500 euros including the cam, Kompressor, Audi rods,computer etc

or you can just put a 2E in and get a very torquey 115 bhp.

[Chris S]

See items for sale, as I have a couple of crossflow heads on there at not silly prices.

[holmes]

iam looking for a 0-60mh time of about 6-7 seconds is this achievable, i dont want to be passed by some old deer in a saxo or other turd car[8D].

[no such user]

What’s your overall objectives and budget for the car?

For me my Golf Syncro isn’t about 0-60, it’s all about the bends – you’ve got to enjoy your corners and a Syncro can see to that.

[holmes]

my objective is to keep the car for life if possible, but with the changing performances of factory cars, i dont want to get left behing by a granny (no offense) in fiesta etc[!]. my budget is ongoing the time period is to be finished by end of next year. obviously i don’t want to spend £1000’s, but knowing me it’ll get out of hand [].

[Chris S]

These are the official VW figures.

The fabled Rallye Golf with 160 bhp and a weight of 1195 kilos has a 0 to 100 kmh (62 mph)time of 8.6 seconds and top speed of 209kph

The Golf G60 Syncro also with same 160bhp but a weight of 1080 kilos has 0 to 100 a time of 8.3 seconds and a top speed of 216 kph.

So to get down to the 0 to 60 time you want I would suggest you will need at least the same sort of motor as mine with 200+ bhp and 200+ newtonmeters of torque, or a VR6 set up which will get very costly for the Syncro drivetrain, and will destroy the handling to boot [xx(]

2498 and counting

[holmes]

i aim to remove alot of sound deadening weight and the changing of the heavy small bumpers to the large lighter versions. when i did this before on my 1.6 driver it was compareable with an 8v gti, which was nice! i managed to remove 4 large black bags of deadenig with each being a struggle to lift. so with an upgrade of engine and the being lighter it should do quite well. also when i had my 2.0l gt syncro a few years back that was comparable with a 16v without the weight saving.

[no such user]

It sounds like maybe you shouldn’t focus on speed, but enjoyment factor of your car, in which case removing weight will do it a lot of favours, but if you’re looking for handling, too then it would be a good ideal to swap out the rear ARB for a Rallye one – this will sort out the handling and allow you to start enjoying the Syncro, rather than worrying about straight line speed, which means so much less, especially when cutting past a napping Impreza WRX on a roundabout – these cars are (IMO) about handling, not outright speed.

[Author]

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