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Because of damage to the roads? I have never tried the studless tyres, only studded. Mine were remoulds, already worn out after three winters. I’ll be buying new winter tyres for next year but surely studded gives the best grip?
Yes, relay ’67’ should go into the place where relay ‘1’ is on your second pic. The fusebox internals are all the same internally I believe, with just the plugs’ pinouts and relays/relay positions differing according to spec.
From memory, the purple/black is indeed the fuel level sender wire (I will have to have a look tomorrow for the haynes as I’ve left it at work).
Not all the fuel pump relays ‘prime’. Some also contain a fuel-cut rev-limiter (mine, no. 62, has no prime and has a rev limiter). There is a good thread about FPRs on cgti, with relay numbers.
The tools, for the connectors with round pins a set of these:
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_TT99.html
If it helps at all, the pin housings (in the CE1 connectors) should be empty and waiting for you to insert the fuel pump part of the loom. At least that’s what I found, my donor was an ’87 gti (K-jet) and the syncro is an ’89 carb model. Haynes manual wiring diagram was all I used when converting the syncro to k-jet gti spec.
If you get a proper automotive connector remover tool, you should be able to extract the part of the fuel pump loom you need, and plug it into the correct holes in the correct plugs on the back of the fusebox. Otherwise just crimp new ones on, or solder it, or whatever.
The place for the fuel pump relay (no. 62 on mine, others will do) was also free and available, it just plugged straight in. The only fiddle I had was making a frankenstein fuel pickup/lift pump arrangement out of the syncro upper part, and the gti lift pump, but it isn’t too hard to do.
I can put up a scan of the wiring diagram if it helps, from the back of the green haynes manual, as all the pinouts for the connectors and fusebox I used are listed in there.
My syncro’s (carb 1.8l GU) tank fitting had a feed and return on it, but the return pipe was 6mm o.d. as opposed to the 8mm o.d. of the kjet injection tank fitting fuel return pipe.
I used the injection return pipe from the metering head all the way back, as it was the correct length. It has the same i.d. as the feed line, i.e. 8mm, so it was loose on the tank fitting return pipe. I made a shim out of a 1″ section of the old carb 6mm i.d. return line. A little heat softened it enough to slide on, and gave the larger injection return line something to tighten down onto.
I was worried slightly that this would restrict the flow of fuel back to the tank, and lead to excessive system pressure, but it checks out at 5.7 bar (correct for later kjet systems) and runs just fine.
If it’s any help, I used a 2wd gti lift pump, which fitted onto the syncro fuel pipe/sender unit. Has worked fine for the last four years. All I had to do was drill a small hole in the cover for the power feed to the pump, and seal around the wire.
I’m sure I’ve read somewhere that it needs to be filled less than 100% full, to allow for expansion, and avoid overheating the fluid. I’ll have a look for the info as I’m sure I’ve saved it somewhere.
Would it be worth doing a group buy perhaps? I’d be into it for sure. How much liquid does one VC need? At say 500g (no idea if this is correct) we’d need 50 people to come in at 28 euro each. I’d happily pay up to 40 euro for a portion. Could work out profitably for the person doing the portioning.
Ta, yes I spotted the golf 3 one earlier, which is what brought on the thought of fitting it. Quite different then. It’s also occurred to me that the golf 3 in-tank pump is only 3 or 4 bar for digifant or whatever, whereas mine needs to be 6 bar for the kjet, so another stumbling block. I might be better off just making a shield to protect the original pump, and leaving it where it is under the car.
Ah ok, cheers. I was hoping it might go in unmolested. Never mind, it’s 100 euros shipped so a little pricey for cutting up. In that case I guess a standard fwd m3 tank would do the job instead. What do you use for the heat source when welding abs, and do you use a filler rod?
I have a second-hand switch from when I upgraded to cable-change gearbox. Can do it for £20 posted to Norway
As for the 6mm hex bolt for the flanges I’m not sure, and my manual doesn’t quote them, but the info must be out there. Most 6mm hex bolts I’ve used are around 20 Nm, so that’s what I used for mine. It would be worth looking up the torque figures for the similar bolts in the 2wd cable change boxes, as they do the same job.
DMF maybe worth changing but after 300k I’d have thought it would have gone already at least once? Which engine is it? I have a nearly new DMF with clutch kit (with all new stretch bolts for installation) which is going on Ebay fairly soon, as I decided to go for single mass on my car. Message me if you’re interested
Clutch release arm on the rod-change boxes is a common fault. Mine went once. Can be changed with the gearbox in-situ I believe, by removing the green endcap from the gearbox.
Sounds like you could have the gearbox with the bolt-in flanges then. Prise out the black rubber cap inside the drive flange cup (if you’re careful you can re-use but they’re only pennies from VW). Then get the longest 1/4″ extension bit you can find, as you’ll need to undo the 6mm hex bolt
(fairly certain it’ll be 6mm hex – mine was, and my VW workshop manual, says it should be, but check it feels ‘right’ in there, as if you bugger this one up you’ve had it. Who knows, someone may have changed it for something else in the past)
which holds the hollow throughput shaft into the differential. I found holding it tight in there, and a tap on the wrench to shock it free worked well. Then you should be able to remove the transfer box. The springiness you can feel is behind the drive flange, but you shouldn’t need to disturb that unless you decide to change the transfer box oil seals.
edit: here’s the sequence for bolting the bevel box support bracket when you’re done (n.b. the bevel box support to bevel box bolts ‘A’ must also be set to 40Nm after the following sequence):
Well worth getting one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLARKE-CAR-MECHANICS-STETHOSCOPE-ENGINE-DOCTORS-/200357927289?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2ea6435979 to try and eliminate any of the less serious sources of the noise, before undoing big end bolts (they are stretch bolts and supposed to be single-use only).
Try disconnecting the fan belts and running the engine (for a brief moment!) to eliminate alternator/water pump/pas pump bearings.
Try depressing the clutch to eliminate worn clutch plate anti-chatter springs and gearbox input shaft bearings. Sounds like this can travel from one end of the engine to the other and cause a lot of confusion.
Unfortunately not Trev. I did spot some eccentric poly bushes somewhere for a Ford Escort, which I was thinking would make a good alternative though.
ie:
http://www.e30m3project.com/e30m3performance/tech_articles/susp-tech/ecc_bush/ecc_bush.htm
this type of thing:
http://www.lichtenberg-classics.ie/control.htm
