Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi joe, fantastic build job on your mk1, had a thought, are you using a mk5 rear diff? the diff is different in the mk5 than in the mk4 ans early TT and S3’s and the control is different but we can work that out I hope.
One questioncomment about your build if you don’t mind.
I think that the solid replacement for the front propshaft donut is going to cause you major problems, ironically if you have the skill and confidance to cut and weld driveshafts, why don’t you cut off the front of the propshaft and weld on the correct type for the transfer box then use the rubber donut!!
Please don’t take this as a negative comment, I’m in awe of your welding skills and I’m impressed with your attitude for someone of 19.
At that age I was definately in the “that should be ok…fingers crossed” style of modding.cheers
Mike
hi Joes, If you could try to put it back together and send it to me that would be great! I can’t make too much of a plan until I see the pcb and the layout. My guess is I will be removing the pcb and controlling the motor and temp sensor direct from the main dashboard control.
the plan….lcd dashboard display and rotary control. display will initially show a system/wiring check, then show diff oil temp, and front/rear transmission ratio from f/r 100:0 to 50:50 in 5% steps.
the diff will fully unlock if, system fail (wiring short or open circuit) diff oil temp too high, handbrake on, footbrake on.
I will have to do some further checks as I believe the main diff oil pump has to be controlled too.
Thats the basis of the controller I have planned at the moment, I’m happy to look at other options or ideas!
I might be able to adapt it more once I have got one running ok.
ie connected to the ABS etc… but one step at a time….
Are you interested in assisting me with testing the unit? how close are you to being ready for a controller?
Sounds very promising…..great!!Mike
Hi Thanks for that Joe,
I guess at the end of the day I can do either, the switches are easier to implement in the software but I guess the rotary is the easier from a user point of view. I’m going to start with the switches first and go to the rotary when I get it all working.
Now here’s the thing…when I started all this I had a 20vt Rallye and was thinking of going to haldex as I broke a couple of gearboxes.
I’ve since moved on and I no longer have the Rallye and no longer have the incentive or need to do this for myself.
The problem I now have is I can’t justfy buying a rear diff or even the controller when I will never need them, so I need a partner (or not) who is prepared to supply a controller to me to look at/test/work on.The upside of this is that they will get to trial my controller, have the opportunity to have an input on the production side of things and of course get one for cost price.
And the down side? well it might not ever happen!! I’m not a profesional programmer, I’m doing this for the fun, the challange, what ever you want to call it, I might damage the controller when I test it, work on it, or just bugger it up. and finally I might not have the skills to complete the project!!!. so no guarantee’s …..anyone interested in taking a chance? or be in a position to help out?
I will leave things a couple of weeks, If I have no positive response then I will give it up once and for all.
thanks guys,
Mike
Hi Guys, just a quick update on my efforts to develop a haldex standalone controller. I have the main control software written but I still need an original controller so I can finish the power control subroutines.
Can I get opinions on how the transfer ratio is selected?
my thoughts are either a rotary control….like a volume control or 2 buttons….up/down?
I can do either but your ideas?
cheersMike
sorry for being a bit of a donkey, I can’t get my picture to upload..any ideas?
final thought, in the depths of my memory I remember something to do with the earth connection from the ecu on the engine block.
now this might be a load of rubbish but it goes something like this.Main earth for the ecu comes from the engine block and it breaks,the ecu continue to work via an earth braid from one of the sensors, only the braid is not man enough to handle the current and starts to break down causing intermittant running and eventually the engine stops working.
now this might be another make of car or as I said a load of rubbish!!maybe someone can confirm this?
mike
Hi Fazz, difficult to understand..is it the top of the ecu connector coming loose? photo would help. I would check the connector..anything contacts greencorroded or black from arcing? clean them up and try again.
if you are happy that the connector is ok, then all that can be left is either the ecu is fried or something odd like an old alarm is causing problems.
try connecting a multimeter to look for an earth on pin 3 and gently tap the ecu…might show up a bad solder joint.mike
Just had another thought, there is a 2 pole connector that has the 12v supply and the injector control from the ECU. If this connector is corroded, it might cause the problems you have.
the wire colours are:-pin 12 on ECU– Brown/Yellow–(connector T2a/2)–Brown–injectors
and
Z1 on fuseboard–RED–(connector T3c/3)–RED–(connectorT2a/1)–Red–injectorsthis bit I hope Chris can help with….
connector T3c is located:
3-polige stecker, links in watervangbak
3 pin plug, left in the water catch trayconnector T2a is located:
dubbele steker, bij inlaatspruitstuk
2 pin plug by the inlet manifoldsorry my Dutch is crap and so is Google’s……..
hope this is some help,
Mike
Hi, all I need is the control module that bolts on the side of the diff. I need to do some tests and investigation, would this be a loan or a gimme?,because this may limit what I can do, I’m not sure how destructive my testing will be!!
BTW I live in Dover Kent!!cheers
Mike
I agree with Trev16v please don’t break it, I’m sure with a bit of help from the guys on the forum we can figure out the wiring problem.
Hi, I have circuit diagrams for the injectors if you need them.
if you have 12v on the injectors then the signal from the ecu might be broken. All the injectors are fired together at the same time, check for continuity from pin 12 on the ecu to the injectors. wire colour is grown/yellow at ecu and brown on injectors. if that is ok and you have 12v then best guess is the ecu must be at fault.
Seems strange to me that the RAC bloke got it running by rewiring the 12v feed?Hi guys, following a rather long time away from things, I want to get back and pick up where I left off with the development of a standalone Haldex controller.
So back were I was before, I need to obtain a Haldex controller to work on. Does anyone have one kicking about that I could have to develop the circuit and software?
Any help would be appreciated,thanks
Mike
Sorry but Dannyp is right, The part nos are different but I put a new TT on one my rallye no problems.
Mike
Ok, head gaskets are the same, 1H or PG no matter, both use the metal gasket.
I suppose ultimately bigger headbolts would imply greater strength but I’m not sure you will ever boost so high that the headbolt size will become important.
VW made many changes to things for motorsport, some make sense and some not. maybe the bigger head bolts were fitted to reduce the stress on the block…who knows!!
the changes to the 1H engine were to get under a cc limit in rallying and had nothing to do with allowing more boost or improving reliability etc.
Good luck with getting your Rallye into the states.Mike
Knowing how up on all things VW Chris is, it gives me so much pleasure to correct the last statment.[
]The 1H uses smaller pistons as the PG engine capacity was too big for world rallying in the late 80’s. the the bore and the pistons were smaller by .4mm
PG’s are 1781 cc
1H’s are 1763 ccwon’t make a cacks worth of difference though !!
mike
quote:
I cant think of everything you know [
] Chris
