[Housey]

engine is back in the car now,

i’ve even mounted an oilcooler this time from a MK1 GTI which has the external one, with a thermostat built into the oilfilter bracket. should get my oiltemps down to a more acceptable area.
injectors have been replaced aswell (310cc/min) with the appropriate chip to go

what i need to do now is:

Put the front axles back on
Torque the Exhaust downpipe to the manifold
torque the 3 bolts that mounts the prop-shaft to the transfercase
various wiring need to be hooked backup again
fill up with new (red) coolant
fill up the transmission with 2.4L of fresh 75-90 synthetic gear oil
start the crap up and test that bugger, and hope its all okay again

so, i’ve got some work ahead of me now

[Housey]

good to hear its usually only small idiotic things which you would not even suspect would have anything to do with it that failes

[Housey]

any updates on the issue?

[Housey]

can’t seem to put my finger on whats wrong in this vid hahaha (irony)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr84LR5YC6I

[Housey]

well, finally started the clutch work..

this is MUCH work too. oh well. should not take too long i guess

[Housey]

don’t get stuck on voltage readings

problem most likely is that current is drawn even when the car is shut of

so get a multimeter or an analog ammeter take the use the leads to “jump” the battery terminal (taking of the terminal, and use the meter between the terminal on the battery and the shoe

then start taking out fues, you will see the current drop when you find the right fuse, then trace wires from there

it should only be a few mA of current being drawn when not running/key off

if you got like 1.5A of current drawn when of. you got a problem. thats only 43hours of battery life on a fully charged battery

good luck

[Housey]

i asked when they did my rear brakes on a vw shop when i got my car licensed, but they didn’t want to tell me

[Housey]

to do the rear adjustment, you will need two gauges that connects to the bleednipples (instead of the nipples) then have someone to operate the pedal while you adjust to the values specified by vw

[Housey]

what are the price on these?

[Housey]

i’m now talking about that crossmember, not the arb, i know that fits, since i’ve used passat g60 syncro rear arb on my golf

[Housey]

do it the old fashion way pump the pedal

i believe your car is non abs?

for the bleeding to be successfull, you will have to fully open the rear valve (there are 2 holes there which you can use to hold it open with a zip-tie og something equal to that)

then it should just be to either use vacuum at the bleed valves or the old style pump action airing of brakelines

shouldn’t be more to it then that

[Housey]

if the bracket is the same as on the passat G60 syncro. i’ve probably got one since i’m parting out a passat g60 syncro. no problem for me to ship to usa if you are willing to pay the price it costs to have it shipped

[Housey]

hydaulic, 02C box. clutch operation feels normal but i’ll drain the box and have a look at the master and slave sylinders

[Housey]

aaand my gearbox probably went bust today

got some wierd vibrations in the car about a week ago. tought it might be the wheels, so got those balanced today. and when i was on my way home, i was shifting from 2nd to 3rd. and the engine almost stopped. so i got it back to neutral and stopped. and there i was. 200meters from my garage. going nowhere

since the clutch pedal feels normal, but does not work at all, i believe that it might have been the transmission which have detonated internally. not visible from the outside

ohwell, just going to have to take out the entire engine/trans then

[Housey]

found the reason why my fuel gauge didn’t work, suddenly became apparent to me when the nut that gives the gauge ground/signal fell on my foot while i was driving. this has rattled loose. making it loose either its ground or signal point

oh well, its back on and working now, along with a counter nut so it won’t get loose again

[Author]

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