Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
not much has happend these last months. havn’t had the will do to much, but that will eventually turn around i hope
anyhow, is there anyway to make the syncro feel more safe to drive?
this is regarding braking, i know its transferring power across the front and rear axle all the time. but this is down right dangerous
when i brake normally, I.E going downhill with snow on the road, when i’m braking, (just touching the brakes).. it starts sailing, locking up the fronts.
and before you say anything, i’m using to drive in the snow, and i’ve driven several other cars latley, they don’t do this at all
you do know that they are sold via vwclassicparts right?
a friend of mine bought all 4 new springs from vwclassic for his country
rear springs:
http://shop.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/vwcp/Golf-Caddy/Golf-2-Country/Fahrwerk/Hinterachse/Schraubenfeder-1.htmlfront springs:
http://shop.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/vwcp/Golf-Caddy/Golf-2-Country/Fahrwerk/Vorderachse/Schraubenfeder-3.htmlopen diff. even when visco is binding. an LSD would work wonders on the rear
they are just fekkin expensive
both the front and rear diff is open on these cars. you can buy LSD’s for both the front and rear diff (02C atleast)
the syncro system is hard if not impossible to skid around in on tarmac or gravel. works best on snow.
more power is always good for doing crap like that
the vwms golf rallyes have a different setup then the roadcars
i suck at keeping all my forum threads up to date. but the engine is more or less finished now. only a couple of small things remain (Oil cooler, downpipe, charge air hoses)
but, all in good time
now on to the fun stuff, the pictures
i’ll start where i left off
the IM-shaft was put in a lathe, looks better, and is now in balance (not that it matters, but its done now)
[/URL]new uprated rods:
[/URL]these are used Wiseco pistons, 8.5 compression, 81.5 dia
[/URL]and they apparently weigh in at 395 grams
[/URL]heres the block honed and ready for more work.
IM-Shaft in. new bearings
[/URL]had a friend of mine make a tool to replace the IM-shaft bearings, so he made two of these, one a bit larger then the other
[/URL]
[/URL]
[/URL]cheap ass ebay 16v inlet manifold. the fit and finish sucket so much ass i don’t even know where to start. but a few hours of grinding etc made it fit
[/URL]AN-4 Fittings/hoses for the Oil inlet on the turbo, flanges are not being used, they are for a different turbo system
[/URL]new piston-rings, 440cc bosch “green-giant” injectors and new crank bearings
[/URL]some headwork:
The head was ported and semi polished, new guides. relapped valves
[/URL]just finished reaming and honing the guides here
[/URL]tapered guides from Techtonics tuning
[/URL]valves assembled:
[/URL]bottom-end assembled. new rings, sputter rod bearings
[/URL]all torqued up
[/URL]new freezeplugs. and plug for the watercooling hose on the turbo
started more assembling
[/URL]new crank oilseal, imshaft oilseal/o-ring. new crank cog-wheel and bolt
[/URL]head decked
[/URL]G60 MLS headgasket
[/URL]head on, torqued up and fittet that ebay crap
[/URL]trial fit of the turbo. i’ve got a different manifold on now, which has the 5th leg cut away and welded shut
[/URL]more fun
[/URL]
[/URL]
[/URL]oil hose for the turbo
[/URL]
[/URL]
[/URL]
[/URL]oilreturn, 10-AN
[/URL]and thats pretty much where i’m at picture wise. oil return is finished, oilpan is back on.
my syncro got approved here in norway with 3degrees negative camber on the rear..
looked wierd. and was a pain to drive in the snow. rear end was floating around as it pleased
