[Housey]

this is the ABF 16v DOHC 150hp version right?

should be just to stick down there. if your car is CE2 the wiring will pop right back into your relaybox

the MK2 gearbox fits. you can also use the current subframe.

yes, you can keep the syncro. but you will have to get creative with the exhaust.

there arn’t many 16v syncro manifold out there, and if you find one, they probably won’t fit the ABF which is a tall block

good luck

[Housey]

hmm. most lowering springs are stiffer in general. might have to try this one out. need to find out if i got a friend who has some rear FWD lowering springs i can try out just to see

[Housey]

just to add a question here.

what are the main differences between the rear springs on FWD vs. S?
we all know the shock is different, but how about the spring, are there many differences? are then infact shorted? stiffer etc?

[Housey]

or possibly know where to obtain a set of springs?

there is craploads of stuff for the fwd golfs, but us syncro guys are having a hard time

[Housey]

Good thing the surgery went as it should

and since this turned out to become an internet speed thread..

[Housey]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cokkeli

i just bought these connectors from one Finnish webshop. Junior power timer series is the name these connectors.

http://www.vekoy.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=junior&x=15&y=8

---

that was some pricy pins

[Housey]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris S

ETKA – Model EL, Year 1990, MG 9, SG 71, Illustration 979-25 & onwards []

---

i know. but the quantity they wanted to sell was insane.. so i opted to find them somewhere else

[Housey]

why didn’t i ever reply to this one? one year old post now, but i still need them

did go to the conrad.nl site and searched for amd mini connector. but that did not help a bit?

then triend AMP mini connector. but that did not help either

[Housey]

this is how i overcame the missing bolthole on the KR block

kinda hard to see as the block is all glossy since i’ve just put a new coat of paint on it

kinda an easy fix. just made a plate, drilled a hole, welded a nut on the rear of that hole, then posisioned it correctly then welded the plate to the block.

probably not going to last forever, but the car isn’t going to last forver either, so i’m not too worried

pic:

[Housey]

ahussyncr. du har sånn delvis rett

noen av de tidlige utgavene har faktisk egen påfylling til fordelingskassa

[Housey]

got some work done today, started dismantlig the head

this is what i started with. complete head. with 288degree camshafts

took the camshafts out

the the lifters

then i set about removing the water outlet. and ofcouse one of the bolts broke, as usual. i got the bolt out by threading a nut over the rest of the bolt, then welding the bolt and nut together, didn’t take any pics of that as i managet to set fire to me workbench

then this happend god dam-n old brass sensors. this broke aswell

but, after some thinking i figured i could try using an XZN bit to remove the remaining bits. so. i found myself an 8mm XZN bit, tapped it in there. its soft brass. so i didn’t use much force

and voila, it came right out

here i’ve taken the inlet valves out

then the exhaustvalves

and that was all i did today. now its ready for some cleaning, then grind casting flash of and relap the valves and put new stemseals on. then the head is god to go.

going to use a different set of camshafts, as i doubt that the 288 ones will be any good for turbocharging

[Housey]

can’t find any that is good. everyone i can find has too worn cylinders. and need to be bored. and boring the cylinders, and buying custom pistons is out of the question at this time

therefor, a 16v block will be more suitable, as they don’t usually have that degree of wear in the cylinders

thats why

[Housey]

i regret to announce this..

but i’m ditching the G60

going 16vt

saved up some money, quit smoking, made me have a few extra $$ making this happen..

this will be done using audi 20vt parts (turbo, pistons, rods, manifold etc etc)

mating this to a 16v block, which i have to do the frankenstein stud-mod on inorder to mount the angledrive bracket

pics will follow once i’ve started this

[Housey]

true.. the northern tires are softer then the hard southern ones

and some dumb asswipes here in norway has decided to cut the numbers of legal studs in the studded tires with about 30 percent..

and the folks who wants to do this, live in oslo. which has a half decent public transport system.. and they have probably never even driven a car before

[Housey]

thats all nice, but what was the result?

[Author]

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