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Hi – weirdly that may be the case – all of my sockets are of the ‘solid wall’ type, i.e. the inside of the socket is the same shape as the top of the nut, with flat sides so they grip the nut better.
A 12 point socket might do it, I’ll get one and have a go. If anyone else can shed some light I’d be appreciative – there are plenty of people on here who have had gearboxes out etc!BTW – did you ever get the 16v on throttle bodies running?
Chris.
I’m interested in the pair – where are you in the UK?
How far does the downpipe go? Pics would be great..
Cheers, Chris.
Thanks Chris – so the questions remain:
1) Will the VR6 TB bolt up to a CBC 4 cylinder gearbox and:
2) Is the VR6 TB (and rear diff) any better / stronger than a ‘normal’ Passat G60 syncro unit and if so why??Cheers,
Chris.
At the risk of answering my own question a bit – the CSR transfer box is listed as having a 16/21 ratio, whilst all the rest (including the ‘normal’ 4 cylinder Passat syncro TB’s) are listed as 20/21 so I’m guessing that the 16/21 ratio in the CSR TB will be spinning the rears out of sync with the fronts – would this be a correct assumption?
Thanks in advance,
Chris.
Hi, thanks for the reply – I’m a bt ignorant with the VR6 parts – will the VR6 (CSR) transfer box bolt onto a CBC 4 pot syncro gearbox?
Do you have the actual VAG part number for the transfer box?
What makes the VR6 box better than the 4 pot boxes? Cast case, oilways etc?
Thanks,
Chris.
Got loads done over the last week or so – haven’t had much time for updates but will put some picures up tuesday.
Got both front ends dismantled for decent access to engines. GTI engine just needs exhaust and driveshafts disconnecting and engine mounts unbolting and it’s out.
My original plan was to remove the engine loom from the GTI, labelling it up as I go, transplant that to the Syncro and then swap the lump but on inspection, it’s actually easier to keep the entire loom on the engine and just disconnect the external bits (ECU etc) and the fuse box end and swap it all as one.
I’m leaving the lighting loom in the syncro, just swapping the engine loom. The two looms go through the bulkhead to the fuse box seperately.
The rallye lift pump and sender are in place and the inline pump got bolted up today. I have swapped the larger GTI fuel return hose – easy once it’s through the chassis leg…
To finish the back end, just have to fit the 4 pole connector to the cable for the lift pump / sender and hoses need fitting to sender unit – I used the GTI hoses from the inline pump to the tank and just extended the flexi hose at the end (as the syncro tank top is further away then the GTi one).Jim and I swapped the full dash loom last weekend so the MFA stalks and clocks are in place. The biggest arse with this was getting the cable for the heated washer jets out of the GTI – it actually runs through the bulkhead behind the (impossible to remove) glovebox and along the metal crossmember at the back of the dash, under the glued down sound deadening…[
!] It must be the first thing they put in the car! Had to rip the entire dash out to get at it and it isn’t going in the syncro the same way – it can run through the engine bay and back to the fuse box with the rest of the cabling… Vacuum line is in place for the MFA on the clocks.Another couple of hours should see the fuel lines and wiring all connected at the back, then it’s on to disconnecting exhausts and driveshafts. I’ve managed to get one of the spring clips that connect the syncro exhaust to the manifold off – the other is proving a little bit of an arse. Also one of the nuts that hoold the exhaust heat shield on is u/s so I can’t get it off easily which appears to be preventing me removing the manifolds from the head which is also a bit of an arse – will have a better look at this later in the week. Hopefully this weekend I’ll hire a crane and get the lumps out and maybe even the boxes swapped over and the GTI lump and 020 box back in.
Haven’t spent any more money so cost is still at £145.94 which is nice..
It’s Simpson Brothers, at Full Sutton, near York in North Yorkshire.
http://autos.bluesock.com/clients/1/site/pages/page_1.php
It’s awesome.Chris.
He – scrapyard envy – here’s my (not so) local one (an hour away…)
A bit more spread out than Chris’ (damn the EEC – makes it more difficult for parts to fall into your tool bag..) but HhhUUUUUUGGGGGGEEEEEEEE. The sheds are full of damaged repairables..
Chris.
Hi Chris – by manifold, I meant the fuel manifold, or rail if you prefer. Both I and the VAG techs (who were a lot younger than me..) were happy about that. They did state, however that there wasn’t a constant return flow so it looks like they were talking out of their arses on that one. I wrongly presumed the return line was just to vent excess pressure and they (also wrongly) confirmed my view…
My presumption is based on the fact that when you turn the ignition on the pumps prime the fuel lines for a second or so. They then stop until the engine runs. This I interpreted as the pumps running until the fuel rail is at the correct pressure and then stopping – i.e. if there was a constant return flow I would expect the pumps to run continuously – obviously this happens when the engine is running.Fair comment about changing the line, I am happy with the pressure capabilities of the 5mm line as it is constructed with the same wall thickness and from the same material as the GTI 7mm return line, the only thing that concerns me is the restricted flow capabilities (I am an Instrument Engineer and know a bit about pressure and flow etc). I know that to be exactly safe I need to 1) never speak to a VAG technician again and 2) change the line for the GTI one. Really I should change it for a new one as Chris’ traumatic pressure split concerns are of more concern when you factor in that the pipe hasn’t moved for 18 years and I’m going to bend it around pulling it out of clips etc but I’m on a budget and will inspect the pipe as well as possible before refitting.
Whilst it’s kinda in bits etc…Spoken to VAG technicians – they don’t see the 5mm return line as a problem – it is only to vent pressure from the manifold etc, it’s not as if there is a constant flow under normal operating conditions so the 5mm stays which makes my life just that bit easier.
This:
on the left is my new rallye tank sender with the lift pump from the GTI fitted and a new filter on the bottom. The middle is the old syncro sender and the right is the old GTi sender minus it’s lift pump. All good. The Rallye sender has a four terminal connector, instead of the GTI three and as Chris rightly pointed out, the extra connector is just a dedicated earth to the lift pump (rather than one signal from sender, one power to lift pump and a combined earth on the three terminal GTI). The four pole connector is listed for digifizz models so maybe the electronic dash needs a seperate earth??
Brand new spanking rallye sender comes in at £59.20 including the strainer.
Because I am anal I have ordered the VAG four pin connector and terminals for the new unit (£5.21) and I will join the cables (soldered and heat-shrink sleeved) and just split the one cable earth to both terminals.Tomorrow should see the inline pump installed and all wiring connected and done, then it’s all about getting the GTi loom out and fitting it into the syncro. I think I’m going to rip the carb gubbins from the syncro first and it looks like I may have to remove (or maybe just loosen) the brake servo to get the looms out and back in – we’ll see..
Total conversion cost so far = £145.94 including all above. If I stick with the rod change box and syncro exhaust (for now, which will restrict things I appreciate) I’m hoping to come in under £500 for a full digifant GTI installation. That’s just for the conversion up and running and doesn’t include niceties like chipped ECU’s..Chris.
Thanks for the offer – I can take the larger bore return pipe from the GTI if nesc, just want people’s opinion on whether it’s actually nescessary or whether the smaller bore return will suffice..???
Chris.
As I’m welding illiterate, flipping the bulkhead isn’t much of an option – I’m thinking of going for something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK2-MANIFOLD-1-8-2-0-8V-G60-STAINLESS-STEEL_W0QQitemZ160201467944QQihZ006QQcategoryZ38786QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
which looks pretty narrow around the delicate areas and if necessary getting it cut and shut to ‘hit the hole'(tm) as centrally as possible.Chris.
