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may I also direct your attention towards the search button at the top of the page.

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tbh never had any probs with mine either driving it quite hard – just try and ease in as you say danny.

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ah interesting – and yes makes complete sense now

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doh! sorry repeels, I missed that you were in belgium… ok that makes a bit more sense now.. apologies for the confusion!

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so it’s not going to turn oldtimer in 2011 then (in a tax sense at least)?

repeels – why could the swap only happen when it’s an oldtimer?

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> the swap can only happen in 2011 as the syncro then turns oldtimer

what’s the threshold for that? is it free tax still? My gti is an 87 so free tax next year woudl deffo be a selling point

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it might also worth checking my “KR into syncro” thread here:

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2162

I think that’s actually the simplest way of getting a 16v into a rhd syncro. It’s taken me a bit longer because I got distracted with (holes in) bodywork and stuff along the way. The actual engine bit of the KR-into-syncro has been pretty straightforward so far and KR motors are cheap, tough and reasonably plentiful.

Dannyp and DiamondHell have also done conversions but using “9a” blocks I think. More powerful end result but possibly a bit more involved.

I would not go the mix-n-match route again myself…that ended up as an engine with lots of random odd bits on it, not un-fixable I imagine but it was a bit less “oem” than I was after. Check the “PGKR” folder in my photos for pics of how that went. It ran but I wouldn’t want to travel across europe in it whereas the KR-into-syncro looks like it came that way from the factory, with only the downpipe and transfer-box-bolt-bracket as custom parts, all the rest is oem.

what would make sense for an 18yr old on a budget would be to get it running *well* and reliable on the GU and possibly wang on a 32/34 DTML weber carb and enjoy it for a while. Perhaps a bit of creative fettling with the exhaust etc too.

For the tradeoff of performance vs ballache the 32/34 is the easiest gain you’re ever going to see on the syncro. If I’m wrong someone please say so.

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if there’s one thing it isn’t, it’s “that simple”

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welcoem to the board – the syncro should probably keep you busy for a little while

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ok to be honest it’ll probably be ok – at least for the time being. Having seen the general quality of handiwork from even “reputable” garages I’m surprised most cars run as long as they do. I think we just notice stuff normal bods wouldn’t.

It’s still pretty slack though for a garage to mess up fitting some bearings… If you’re near northampton can I recommend Bahnstorm.net?

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Not really had much time to post updates, but I’ve been working on stuff still.

The engine is basically in and all connected up. The engine-bay wiring loom is there but I haven’t connected any of the wires yet, I’ve just been concentrating on making sure the mechanical bits all fitted.

I think the last bits to do before we can fire it up are to plug in the engine loom, fit and wire in the pressure fuel pump, fit the fuel feed and return lines and also the fuel lines from the metering head to the inlet manifold.

*hopefully* then we should have liftoff.

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/?arc=KR_Into_syncro&page=28&size=3&tpxbasketid=&search=&sortby=filename&sortbydir=asc&cols=3&cmd=do_search&i=0&big=0&gotourl=&p=9.Photos_LD50%2F_&basket_params=&basket_params_index=&noflash=&video_or_image=

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I think the lack of answers probably says it all unfortunately

If it’s an actual garage then they probably have some sort of guarantee surely? Personally if that happened to me I’d ask for the job to be done properly as they were supposed to. I think it might be one of those things where you have to insist on it there and then though, and not accept the car back as is.

I think it’s a bit like finding out you’ve got the wrong change after you’ve left the shop

Have you got a pic of the damaged bit so it might be possible to make a better assessment of whether it’s likely to be a problem?

Actually it might be worth talking to the citizen’s advice bureau – I know it’s extra fannying around but think they’re supposed to help with stuff like that, or would at least be able to tell you one way or the other.

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which pipe has split? photo perhaps?

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ah good to know danny, cheers. I will check for that too

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good suggestion mike, although t’s actually had a recent lambda so i think it’s running as the factory intended, just that’s kinda weedy. I’d like to be able to run it a bit rich to cover the flat spots. It’s better since fiddlign with the timiing but there are still definite bits where it “falters” and I reckon more fuel would solve that.

I guess they tuned for economy rather than performance. It’s quite a nippy little go-kart for round town esp with the stiffer springs, I’m just missing the “mixture adjustment” screw.

I reckon my best plan is going to be piggybacking whatever sensor decides how much air is coming in like the little add-on resistor jobbies. Once I’ve cleaned up and sold the gti I’ll be working on this car in a bit more depth so will test in more detail then

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