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Given the car’s not feeling too perky, could it also be worth tinkering with the ignition timing?
I dunno if this is the *correct* way to do it but I’ve found on all our cars that experimenting a bit with the timing can put the power-band where you want it, which can transform the drivability of the car.
I know it’s not the most accurate thing to adjust on the 8v but if you mark your start position with punch or small chisel, and then test a mm or two either way and see if it drives nicer. If it improves try a couple of mm further.
My gf’s 6n polo went from being an “unwilling participant” in the driving process to being more like a “puppy on a lead” just by adjusting the timing a bit.
so what was the verdict after all that?
get eu ecu and fit a lambda or get a uk ecu and don’t fit a lambda… is that about right?
as well as possibly – get a uk ecu, fit a lamdba but don’t connect it (??)
lol yes it’s me and my housemate from a while started it
nice one on the 303! nothing else quite comes close to the sound does it. That same housemate had one (he was on here briefly with his yellow postal syncro van)
or you could just fit a lambda probe…I’d have thought powerflow would be able to add the slot in easy enough.
I fitted one to mine. For about £12 I got a threaded fitting plate. Drill hole, weld in place…job done. I’d have thought powerflow would have them as off-the-shelf items if they’re making exhausts regularly…
ok whilst I don’t like the idea of raw meth for all the reasons mentioned earlier it does look like the thing most likely to actually be what we want it to be… octane booster. I guess if it’s only small quantities and it’s stored as mixed with water there should be no problem?
Where would I get methanol on a regular basis? Race shop at santa pod I guess? Do I need any special paperwork in order for someone to sell me it (or to keep it at the house)?
Btw EDDY I’m apologies re hijacking this thread, but it looks like you “sparked” some interesting ideas…
hmm ok good food for thought. I’ve done some stuff with little piezo foggers before, I wonder if it could be made in sufficient volume to work on a car.
Once I’ve got the syncro together I’ll have to have a play with a spare inlet pipe and see if we can get anything going in that direction. I guess whatever atomisation method it uses it’ll need the same basic pipework to feed it liquid.
re alcohol – so it doesn’t have to be directly methanol then does it? I guess meths is the easiest to get hold of. Could you perhaps mix octane booster with water and mist that in there?
tbh startig with water is probably a good idea and then complicate it later…
Just ordered Exhaust heat wrap and stainless ties as discussed previously.
Full brake-line kit, fittings and flaring tool is here so I can replace the lines I had to cut off from the front calipers and the damaged rear one. I’ll hopefully be picking up some stainless braided flexi-hoses from GSF tomorrow.
This weekend the plan is to get the brake lines done and the subframe back on so it can be rolled on it’s own 4 wheels again. Maybe close up the rear quarter panel too if there’s time.
While schutzing the front end I also took the liberty of coating the inside of the new wings. I’m hoping it’ll prevent rust as well as be a bit of sound-deadening.
After my battle with removing the motor this last time, I think I’m going to try a different approach with re-fitting it. I’m going to leave the front cross-member off and hold the engine in place with the crane but wth the motor resting on blocks or a jack and roll the car onto/around it, then just hoist onto the mounts, rather than fitting it from the top.
The crane works ok but I’m still not that confortable with it swinging a motor around the place 3 feet in the air…plus there’s always antics with getting the engien and box to hang at the right angle so you can get it in the bay but without touching the sides. It’s not so bad on the gti btut here’s a lot less gearbox to worry about, less weight, less pointy bits etc..it’s a complete pain on the syncro…hopefully this way is better.
Plus the gearbox always scuffs the chassis rails and I’ve just re-painted them so it better bloody-well not this time.
this car is going to be awesome o/
When you search it even searches the photo archives too and brings up any relevant images if there are any…
We’ve thought about this
oh sweet… that would be a nice plan
hmm no scrappys near by, there’s a VW one a way away but whether they’re still going or not I don’t know. Will have to check..
it looks like it would actually nearly fit in that way around – pity there isnt a box which would handle rwd fun with it…
Transmission tunnel’s a bit on the small side too…
Only worked on the car saturday this weekend, but got shedloads done. Up to to the a-pillar and the bonnet-side of the scuttle-panel is now fully rust-proofed, painted and laquered and it looks lush.
As usual, the pics are all captioned rather than here..
that sounds like a very interesting idea indeed danny and given I’ve got a gti 16v Kr and the exact same in the syncro it probably warrants looking into. I always carry water anyhow because it gets a bit thirsty when tickled.
I think I do actually do run the ignition quite advanced although not sure by how much. I just adjusted it till it came on power at what seemed like the “right” point (about 4k) but before it started to complain. I also run it rich because as you say on 5th-gear flat-out it leans out so the water could be just the ticket since it’s a bit “phlegmy” at anything less than 5th gear wot. This might mean I can roll it back a bit but not lose top end. I bet the mpg won’t be hurt either!
When you say alcohol I presume you don’t mean methanol? but then what? (lager injection?) tbh meth sounded like way too much risk/hassle. I already encounter more than enough noxious fumes as it is.
Re the atomiser – surely a setup like the fuel-delivery pipe in a weber carb would be ideal? (i.e. pipe into middle of airstream). I can’t quite visualise what 250cc/min would be vs the air flowing but I guess this goes in the inlet tract about where a nos dizzy would go? in fact wouldn’t a nos dizzy be about ideal? Basic airbrushes just have a fine nozzle in an airstream and can give pretty decent atomisation.
When you mentioned how some of the 02 can break down from the water and provide extra bang – what governs that – how finely atomised the water is?
I’ve actually got a wizards of nos pulsoid sitting here.. I bet it could be repurposed for water
Hmm trying to work out where toput the extra washer bottle…probably in the boot..
interesting stuff danny – so basically just finely atomised water in the inlet tract would do the job or would you need to adjust fuelling to compensate?
I’ve got the AVO ones on mine and whilst they have many faults, it looked like raising it a few inches would be no problem at all (i.e. plenty of spare damper travel). Longer springs and some largish wheels would probably give you all the clearance you need.
