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Can you not fit coilovers? I’ve got some on mine and considered raising it up country-style. I think I would have only needed to add longer springs to the coilovers… e.g. 11″ instead of the standard 9″.
I figured if you raised it by the amount people normally lowered it you’d be fine. If you get excessive camber probs at the back you could fit some adjuster plates as detailed by chris and others…
Whilst I’m not intimately familiar with the country model, I have poked around a few and whilst I like the deisgn there really isn’t that much ground clearance to speak of. Most of what is gained is used up but the huge subframe so if you just jacked a regular syncro up a bit you’d probably get as much clearance, although no frame for underbody protection.
when I first looked into syncros someone in the US had made a “country-a-like” by doing just these things and it looked pretty damn good and had oodles of clearance. Will try and find a pic.
Ok busy weekend got loads done. Aidan From Bahnstorm.net was over yesterday and briefly today and has removed the old GU engie bay wiring loom and fitted the KR one. As far as I can tell it’s now more KR than GU which is fantastic progress.
I’ve also made a replacement captive nut for the knacked subframe mount, got it in place and welded the mount shut, primered it to match the rest of the engine bay and underbody schutz’d most of the bits which needed treating.
I’m hopefully going to squeeze in a second coat of schutz during the week and then paint it next weekend. It needs new front brake-lines since all the old fittings were corroded but that’s then everything up to the a-pillar fully-restored and should be rust-free for the next 20 years.
Ultimately there’s not that much standing between now and a running KR – it still needs a fuel-(pressure)-pump and one of the rear brake-lines was also damaged but short of putting the engine in I think that’s about it.
hmm looks like it’s something they have to do though – I reckon mechanical solution for now… there may be changes along the way so reversible insulation would be better
Yet another VW classic – the bolts were in, just forgot to phone. It’s like they’ve hired the staff of mcdonalds.
anyhow bolts are apparently in, and I should have time to get to vw and across to the nuts and bolts places if the threads i have don’t match, so fingers crossed we should be up for closing up the subframe mount this weekend.
Aidan’s hopefully also coming over to make a start on the wiring so should be a busy one!
as far as I know they all have the right holes…I have a g60 lump here which deffo has the right ones.
indeed! I guess they don’t test them on etka when they get hired. They shoul dhave some of the cashiers from Aldi – they used to know all the prices off by heart – would be magic in a parts warehouse..
haven’t got much by way of pics but have done loads the last couple of weekends. the front end up to the a-pillar is now 100% solid and newly rust-proofed and zinc-primered. Once i’ve got the subframe bolts from vw I can close it all up and rubber-coat it but I’m doing other stuff till then.
Subframe has been cleaned up, de-rusted, kurusted and undersealed with hammerite’s paint-on black gunk which has weathered very well elsewhere. One more coat of that later this week should see it right for another 20 years.
Nuts and bolts were ordered from vw and I also got a classic quote in answer to one of my questions about one or other type of subframe bolt.. “nobody’s been here long enough to have any experience”… funny or scary – not sure which. This is AutoHaus Northampton for reference – AVOID! However Anglian Fasteners were very helpful and seem to have any kind of nut i’ll need even if VW don’t have a clue themselves.
I’m thinking to replace the captive nut thing in the subframe mount with two squares out of 4mm steel welded together which won’t be able to rotate in the mount, then weld a nut on the top… we shall see.
I’ve also replaced 3 of the doors with the ones from our old red 1.3 whcih were in much better shape than the syncro items. The car’s a great patchwork of red oxide primer, grey primer, red doors, black wings and a tiny bit of the original jade green here and there… most amusing but it’s actually now nearly all solid metal
I’ll need to de-rust a coupel of bits and re-treat the underside of the passenger cell too at some point but it’s not crucial to getting it roadworthy so will come back to that once the motor’s in.
Hopefully later this week Aidan will be over to start wiring in the KR loom. Also hopefully VW will have differentiated arse and elbow and come up with my bolts so I can close up the subframe mount and get it all rubber-coated and weatherproofed.
Will try and grab some more pics once it’s stopped raining…
ooh – also got some nice compomotive 16s for it from Aidan… they need respraying but will look very nice when done….mmmm
tbh even “explaining” i can live with – to some extent it’s even a bit reassuring, as long as they limit the judgements to whether the job has been done properly rather than that I shouldn’t be able to fit a supra into my golf if i want to…. I was planning skyline drivetrain actually but close enough
yes the one from a rallye will fit and will do exactly that.. are they still flogging them from vw chris?
Hi tay, welcome to the site.
>Its got a hole by the sill an 2 small ones ether side at the back so I’m in two minds whether to do it up or use >it for spares.
Have you got a mig welder? I guess it depends what you mean by “little holes” too – pics could help give a better picture. Mine’s survived despite being something of a swiss cheese at the start..
Pics updated, front chassis rails taken back to bare metal and primered, bit of welding, bit of this and that, masses of progress
