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cheers housey – I’ll look into that. I wasn’t trying to get hung up on voltages but at the same time wanted to check things were within normal parameters before digging elsewhere or replaced the alternator.
I suspect there is an old alarm in her golf and that might still be draining some power. I removed the engine bay wiring for it when i sorted the subframe mount recently but haven’t looked inside yet to remove the rest.
Chris thanks for the readings, the little solar panel is a great idea – that could solve the problem on both cars while I poke around for whatever’s draining the battery – thanks
> Is there a specification for checking the adjustment? I know it probably needs to be adjusted since the car is lowered….
as far as I’m aware the front wheels should lock up before the rears. On mine there was a lever with a springy bit and the bolt which joins it to the bias valve had some built-in play so I adjusted it so that as the car stands the valve was adjusted to the beginning of that play (i.e. no bias adjustment).
Can’t really describe it any better and I know it’s a bit different on the syncro (this was on a 16v) but if I were to load a car full it would have a small margin and then start adusting more to the rear. I tested whether the fronts locked up first as they should and they did. Braking and sliding it feels as it should and it stops on a dime so I can only conclude it’s set up about right
> One more question, when bleeding the brakes, the rears will not bleed unless the Prop valve is opened by hand..that means it works, right?
that does sound like it’s working…
> Also, I used a pressure bleeder to bleed the system when I did it, is that a good or bad way to go about this?
I’ve only done it by slowly stepping on the brake (or having the missus do it while I do the bleed, no idea what a pressure bleeder is sorry…
hey – I had something similar on my gti where the pedal would sometimes work and sometimes it needed a pump beforehand. It turned out to be that the lever which triggers the proportioning valve wasn’t set up correctly (or attached at all in this case) so the valve flapped around giving me mostly “random” braking distribution…
I guess you’ve checked that the valve can move freely and is more or less correctly adjusted have you?
If you find it’s not correctly adjusted (i.e. no flow to the rear as no braking force might suggest), once adjusted you’ll need to bleed the rears again.
Crazy thing was mine had gone through the workshop and the MOT like that and nobody noticed!
we’re not talking about the sub-frame mounts here are we? (confused as to which bolt broke).
I’ve just done that repair on the missus’ gti (having done it on my syncro too in the past)
I’m sure I’ve still got a std exhaust kicking about somewhere…will have a look in the shed next time..
wehey -subframe back on and engine in now. Still needs hooking up but it’s in and none of the new paint damaged.
I actually found a new way of putting the engine in … i have it on a dolly anyway and found if i leave the front cross-member off I can just wheel the dolly into place, and lift the engine a couple of inches onto the rear mounts. Then lower the engine a bit, botl the cross member onto the front mount and then raise the engine so it holds the cross member in place and bolt it up. No heaving engine over the cross-member, no damaging the paint with the pulleys or the edge of the gerbox… very painless indeed.
Hmm not sure what to do – been doing loads of car stuff recently but none of it syncro related so was unsure whether to post… unfrotunately I’ve had to do another broken sub-frame mount, and while it was all out I did a bit of an engine bay restoration too, this time on the gf’s recently bought tornado red 91 8v gti.
Just sprayed the bay today after fairly thorough cleaning up (wasn’t much rust). Other than that it’s had thick coats of electrox, shutz and now colour. So far as well as actually repairing the mount its also had a new clutch cable, engine and box cleaned right up and rustable parts cleaned and painted, new timing belt. All the knackered cloth wraps from the wiring loom also re-wrapped with amalgamating tape, wiring generally tidied up, subframe shutz’d too, driveshafts de-rusted and painted, front-cross-member de-rusted and painted, all manifold and downpipe studs cleaned or replaced and all mani/dpipe nuts replaced with new brass versions, scuttle panel area cleaned out, brake-pipes cleaned up, de-rusted and schutz’d and now painted, firewall degreased and cleaned back to original colour (it’s shiny!), brake servo de-rusted and painted.
I re-welded the front jacking points earlier in the year (in the snow with a non-auto-darkening welding mask!) and replaced with 2mm steel “armour plated” versions to ensure strength in the area. In doing that I’d already waxoyl’d the beams and that whole area so I reckon I should be able to give that a miss during this round but might well just squirt a bit in there for good measure. The rest of the underside looks mint and rust-free and it got re-shutzed when I did the jacking points for good measure.
Am basically hoping now that the paint is on I can carefully put the motor back in and with a bit of a buff of the paintwork it’ll be about as close to “a new mk2” as I’ve ever seen.
Then I’ve got to replace the pipework on my gti for the lovely shiny items I have sitting in my front room (4-2-1 manifold and full scorpion system) and fix the boot latch so I can get into the boot again… and *then* I can weld up the side of the syncro and get her running.
I’ve been doing just a few hours every other day but it’s really let me cover a surprising amount of ground relatively painlessly. It’s been good to have stuff I *had* to do to get me back into the rhythm of it and hopefully I can carry that momentum on to the syncro
just saw the error – think it might be to do with the backup system soemhow… rebooting server and will see if that helps.
