[LD50]

oh yikes. the standard GU downpipe on a G60? that doesn’t sound great but I guess it would work..sorta. Never even worked particularly well on the original GU.

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[LD50]

hmm well it’s RHD so I guess it’s not an original G60..rhd g60 conversion?

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[LD50]

it’s all good sam, post away 🙂

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[LD50]

re the motor – g60 – nice! that should have the right bolt holes on the back of the block etc which is great, and having the full donor car/loom/everything should make life a lot easier 🙂

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[LD50]

hmm not sure why the old forum posts were hidden – have fixed that.

the old site had to be locked since the signup process got broken by the ceaseless march of technology…but all the old forum posts were migrated across to the new forums, and there’s a link cunningly hidden at the top of old forum posts titled “See this exact topic on the new forums”….which in this case links to:

https://forum.vwsyncro.co.uk/?s=%22020+rod+change+to+02C+cable+change+parts+list%22&ad=topicfwd_2361

and

https://forum.vwsyncro.co.uk/?s=%22brake+upgrades%22&ad=topicfwd_119

respectively. But you should be able to see the old forum posts now. Not sure why they were hidden. Hope that helps..

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

Congrats on the syncro Sam 🙂

so what motor (engine code) was in the corrado which you’re planning to swap into the syncro? That’ll help with figuring out how difficult this is going to be

You can indeed use a gti lift pump with some modification, and with just a little wiring modification you can even use all the oem gti loom for the fuel pump and it’ll all link in to the correct relay so the fuel pump stops and starts as it should as standard. There’s pics on here somewhere and I’ll dig them out otherwise. It’s relatively straightforward.

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

just testing image posting via attachment – Sam do you not get the “attach file” button below the post gubbins? I just tested posting a pic and it seemed to work ok. Some mobile browsers have issue with it though on my android phone it works in chrome.

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

Attachments:

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   snoopycat.jpg
   

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[LD50]

Hiya Sam,

glad you were able to log in finally, welcome to the site 🙂

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[LD50]

wunderbar and rear wiper removed. That’s all I’ve got energy for today. exhausting week.

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[LD50]

fixing the downpipe leak and the rear brake cylinder are not likely to be trivial but should both be doable. Might need to fix my compressor first tho as that packed up too recently (of course). Rear brake may actually be ok, at least for the short term, but I’ll need to have a proper look at least to check it’s not leaking or knackered.

The little spots of rust above and below the windscreen can just be filled for now, will get the screen pulled and weld them properly once mot. Otherwise I think I’ll just aim for “minimum viable product”, get it more or less the same colour and then work it from there.

Today has been EPIC progress though. The wiring was the only “absolute blocker” on the to do list and has been so for over a year I’m sure. Can’t believe it was such a simple thing in the end and that I had to rip a perfectly good alarm out to get to that point but whatever. I think my insurer will require another alarm and I have no problem with that when the time comes. Either way it’s now working and I’d still take that outcome vs alarm and not working 🙂

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

erm yes probably – does that control that too? I don’t know what the current situation is there. There’s normally a couple of wires which go to the box on a KR install, I guess they’re the reversing light switch? Pretty sure I could hack something together there since i should have the original plug from the GU loom.

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[LD50]

damn now I need to make an actual list of things standing in the way of an MOT and hit that hard. The audi rear diff only has a few journeys left in it and I’d like to save one of them in case i have to go get the replacement diff, so if there’s any way at all I can get the syncro working, regardless how rough it looks, it needs to happen pronto.

– fix downpipe exhaust leak
– RR brake cylinder needs replacing (pipe twisted, may actually be ok, would rather replace tho. Have replacement cyl already
– Reversing gearbox switchy thing (probably not actually an issue for mot, only if need 4wd in reverse – REVERSING LIGHT?)
– properly affix the braided fuel lines to the underside of the car. Need to make brackets for that, currently ziptied
– fix stray cable on the FR headlight plug (soldering, easyish)
– put the bumper and chin panel on
– sensors – oil pressure, engine coolant
– add coolant sensor to current expansion tank (should be easy, have part already)
– needs windscreen wipers, old ones are shot.
– scuttle panel small rusty patch – treat & fill for now, weld once mot
– above windscreen small rusty patch – treat & fill for now, weld once mot
– timing/fuelling
– side repeaters – must have some somewhere.
– electrox RR arch and sill

Not essential for mot but fix if possible:
– heating/fan needs replacing (not MOT essential)
– front inner wings (? maybe, not mot req)
– driver side wing mirror broken (may have one on a spare door, possibly not actually MOT req), replace or remove

DONE – pull the wunderbar off (will come back to the wunderbar when mot not priority)
DONE – remove rear wiper (fouls the gti rear screen spoiler).

The timing needs setting by a grownup (or advice from) – currently it’s a bit like the engine is on an elastic band vs the accelerator, so the engine rpm doesn’t track the movement of the accelerator as rapidly as you’d expect so I’m guessing either fuelling or timing, haven’t really done much with either. Anyone with a clue what that might be please shout. The ISV seems to be in and working (buzzes before ignition). It starts and idles just fine, the fuel pump wiring seems fine.

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

for my own ref – Syncro mk2 reversing switch info:

http://www.vwsyncro.co.uk/data/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2365

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[LD50]

OMG I FIXED IT!!!

So I managed to take the alarm out, turns out it wasn’t that. Damn. Perfectly good alarm (with cat 1 certification) now in the bin and still none the wiser.

Then I had an idea that perhaps it was just the little switch which is triggered by the brake pedal – it’s on by default unless the brake pedal is fully back up. Guess what..it only bloody worked 😀

So whilst I’m a little annoyed that I removed the alarm for no reason (it was a no-going-back removal)…I’m absolutely overjoyed that I’ve *finally* figured out what the wiring issue was (and that there actually wasn’t even an issue).

I think that means I can actually work towards an MOT now.

There’s still some other little wiring issues like the wiring which comes out of the gearbox…I have no clue what to do about that but I see that as relatively minor in comparison and may not even prevent it from going through an mot.

\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/\o/

at long last 😀

• This reply was modified 6 years, 3 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

so the person supposedly going to help me with the wiring has failed to materialise several times now so I guess I’m on my own. I think I’m going to have a go at removing the alarm/immob altogether and see where we get to. I like having the remote central locking but if it means the wiring’s all kooky then it’s gotta go.

I have no clue wtf I’m doing re alarm wiring so will just try and unpick the wiring one bit at a time and see what happens. I did the same on my old gti and that ran afterwards so there’s precedent of this approach working at least.

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