[LD50]

I will be out in the shed today so will check for you. I suspect the bolts will be back on the car but i do have a spare 3-pronged flange which they bolt into – so if i can find a different bolt which fits that thread we should be able to get thread pitch.

watch this space.

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[LD50]

please try and re-upload the pics – it’s an intermittent issue with the server, should be working now…

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[LD50]

hiya,

thanks for being a member for such a long time – obviously it’s sad to hear you’re parting with your syncro but perhaps it will find an enthusiastic new owner…there can’t be many of them which made it as far as Japan. Perhaps refer them to the site in case they need spares etc.

Ever since the forum changed its appearance, I sort of felt weird, I guess I am getting old not accepting/adjusting to new things, but I must say I liked the older forum.

yeah I think we all preferred the old forum to some extent, but it was terribly un-secure and was not working in other ways so it was a case of update it or let it die. The new forum is far from perfect but it’s a lot more secure and (mostly) works…but we’ve been through all this anyway so I won’t dwell on it.

Thanks again for your contributions over the years, you will be missed. If I’m ever in Japan I’ll definitely give you a shout, though that’s a looooooong drive 😉

LD50

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[LD50]

no worries, glad it was helpful 🙂

tbh doing anything in that area in situ is gonna be a royal pain in the ass, including getting the whole transfer box off to replace it. Keep us posted!

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[LD50]

that would of course work even better 😀

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[LD50]

ok so I just had a look at the disassembled transfer box and whilst you can remove the 3-pronged bit, it does look like the collar of that helps centre the shaft which exits the transfer box, so it may not be a good idea to do so.

That said it may be possible to duplicate the locating collar minus the 3-pronged flange with a bit of steel tubing appropriately turned on a lathe, which when bolted on might mean you could safely continue driving minus the 4wd. I might be able to help with that if needed as I have a small lathe as well as all the parts to take measurements and make a duplicate part.

Obviously I wouldn’t be able to recreate the splined section but if you’re not providing drive to the rear then that wouldn’t really matter. The replacement section also wouldn’t be the same type of steel (different hardness, mild vs engineering steel) so should probably be considered a somewhat temporary solution.

What I don’t have is the nut & any washers which might secure the 3-pronged flange so there may be a bit of guesswork there. The bits I have are the leftovers from a transfer box which was cannibalised by a garage which worked on my syncro a long time ago so it’s sorta “misc transfer box bits” :-\

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• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

I’ve not removed that myself but here’s a couple of pages from etka which may be of some use?

EDIT: Actually I just remembered I have an 020 transfer box in bits in the shed, lemme have a quick look and see if there’s any clues as to how it goes together there…

• This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

Yeah it’s taking a while but I’ve had a new job and some other bits which have been taking priority…getting back into it now though 🙂

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[LD50]

So at long last and after much life/work turbulence… I finally got the wunderbar properly welded up and given a quick lick of paint. It still needs a couple of little bits adding since the bit of tin which normally goes across the front “chin” and ties the wings together is no longer present so the wings will have to attach to something, but the bulk of it is done \o/

I also finally had the money to get some wheel spacers so that I could fit the mud+snow wheels I acquired – they were off a vauxhall astra though so the centre bore was a teeny bit smaller. Hub-centric wheel spacers + lathe = nicely fitting wheels 🙂

They seem to be a little bit bigger diameter which increases the round clearance somewhat..bonus 🙂

I’ve also got some high temp RTV/silicone so *hopefully* I can sort the leak in the downpipe/manifold join, so it might have a hope of getting thru an mot, and also ordered bits to sort the rear brake piston which I managed to mess up many years ago.

There’s still the weird electrical thing where the tail lights come on whenever the battery is attached, which I have no clue how to sort but I think that’s gonna be a case of unplug everything and re-plug it and hope it fixes it or helps identify the problem. I must have plugged something in wrong somewhere since there’s no actual “custom” cabling as such.

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• This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by LD50.

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[LD50]

are you wanting to put a syncro rear cross-member into a mk1 golf? I think people normally start with putting a syncro boot floor in since that has all the mounting points. Would be a bit of a squeeze in a mk1, tho I’m sure it’s been done.

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[LD50]

I guess being up on ramps meant that there was no fuel getting to the engine…put some more fuel in and it fired right up \o/

There was still a teeny bit of smoke leaking from the manifold/downpipe join but I tightened the bolts a bit more and it seemed to stop. Might have to have another go at those bolts and try to make sure they’re *super* tight to make sure there’s nothing seeming out. Failing that perhaps squirt a bit of exhaust gasket sealant type stuff in there though obvs would rather not have to take all the inlet stuff off again.

There was still some general smokyness from that part of the engine bay but I would imagine that was left over WD40 or engine oil since it didn’t seem to have a specific source.

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[LD50]

got it all back together again now with an exhaust gasket and the fecker won’t start. Not sure what I’m missing though i did find out that a couple of the plugs were loose before (when it ran).

Am awaiting some starting spray so I can see if it’s a fuelling issues, tho the plugs seemed wet and there’s spark….so not sure what else is wrong. ugh

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[LD50]

So the Wunderbar mock-up construction is done (pics are MIG’d tack welds) and I spent much of this afternoon working on the finish welding to practice my TIG work, and it seems to be coming along nicely.

I love the level of control you get with the TIG (using the foot pedal) rather than the more “point and pray” approach with the MIG, though the extra set-up time is a pain in the ass…in most cases it’s meant the welds don’t even need dressing. I’m not quite up to the standard of being able to do consistent “fish scale” welds yet but a few of them are in that ballpark, and most of them are just smooth which will do me nicely for the moment 😉 Will post some pics when it’s daytime (it was dark by the time I finished today).

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[LD50]

so it turns out I might have found out why my downpipe was smoking…there was no gasket between the exhaust manifold and the downpipe flange…so that possibly just saved me a shitload of work \o/

guess I’ll have to practice my TIG welding on the sump cage/Wunderbar then…

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[LD50]

got the next set of intermediate bars on the Wunderbar tacked in place and got the first tabs onto the front bumper section so now it holds itself in place…

I’m awaiting more tubing to do a bit more cross-bracing and then hopefully add some nice thick ali plating and we’re done \o/

• This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by LD50.
• This reply was modified 7 years, 9 months ago by LD50.

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