VR6SyncroMark2

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 52 total)
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  • in reply to: Is it OK to drive without the propshaft? #2633

    Thats an interesting idea.
    Sounds like a good short cut to get the car running with out all the sensors etc?
    Whats the problem with reverse?

    quote:


    Originally posted by blue95

    Thanks

    Plenty of options there!

    I only plan to run the corrado for a few days without the prop, and even then will only drive 25-40 miles in total at sensible speeds!

    Once the prop is in I plan to run without the vacum line and electrics attached to the diff. I understand this will enable 4wd, but reversing will be a bit of a problem!

    I eventaully will plumb in the vacum and electrics though![:D]

    Cheers


    in reply to: Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos) #2578

    quote:


    Originally posted by ld50

    your project looks like it’s coming along nicely :)

    > Has anyone on here stripped a bay completely before?

    did the 16v one in the summer as preventative rust treatment – just a variety of wire brushes on drills seemed to do the job ok.

    Just a thought re the floor panel you’re welding in – did the old one have ridges/swages in to increase stiffness?


    Yes the floor did have ridges etc but I have overlaped the new panel as much as possible onto the original plate and also plan to fix another plate from underneath the chassis, so effectively in the most part its three layers thick.

    Thanks for your comment regarding cleaning the engine bay glad Im not the only one killing my drill with hours of work.

    Rob

    in reply to: Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos) #2574

    Started to weld in home made patches for the floor today, didnt get very far as we ran out of gas for the welder after about 2 minutes! [:(] but it looks like the patches will work. (tried it with some thick plates to begin with but couldnt get the correct shape was just to hard to bend, but have now managed to source some plate about the same thickness as the original floor and that bends easily with the help of my hammer).

    plate.jpg

    Rob

    in reply to: mk3 golf vr6 supercharged syncro #2549

    quote:


    Originally posted by johnemerson38

    i dont think these alloys suit my golf would like some nice bbs splits


    Yes BBS splits are always good.

    in reply to: VR6 or Rallye tranny? Which is the strongest one? #2546

    any info that people have regarding haldex would be interesting (specially finished conversions and how they have been achieved).

    English only for me pls :)

    Rob

    in reply to: New Schrick 288 8v cam FS #2537

    quote:


    Originally posted by re2

    bump

    offers????


    Maybe your names putting people off? “Dangerous Dave”

    in reply to: mk3 golf vr6 supercharged syncro #2519

    Amazing how much a decent set of alloys change the look of a car.

    in reply to: Adjustable rear camber & toe in CHAT #2506

    If these things were easy to do everyone would be doing them!

    I cant believe how much luck you have with fantastic Metal work shops and scrap yards near you?

    Is there also money that grows on trees and rivers that flow with beer? [:)]

    Best of Luck with your newest challenge

    Rob

    in reply to: Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos) #2475

    Got a bit more of the engine bay cleaned up.

    silver.jpg

    Has anyone on here stripped a bay completely before?
    Im curious how other people have approached getting in to all the tight spots? Large flat areas arent to bad but some bits are a nightmare [:(]

    in reply to: Supercharger Rebuild #2469

    better than new!

    in reply to: A very very weird golf country on german ebay #2468

    Im loving the white bumpers!

    in reply to: Ride Height #2447

    LOL put some bigger wheels on it and it could pass as a monster truck. (is it possible the rear shocks are new and dont belong on this car??)

    Rob

    in reply to: Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos) #2429

    The bodywork book arrived yesterday so I decided to put some new knowledge into practise and patch up the worst rust area in the engine bay. (The book is excellent, lots of full colour photos)

    So heres the result:

    Before
    rustbay.jpg

    Cut out worst of the rust
    bulkhead.jpg

    Plate welded in place
    bay2.jpg

    Used an old grinding pad to smooth excess welding.

    Cleaned up and a layer of paint to keep the rust away
    bayfinished.jpg

    Its still abit rough round the edges but its going to have heat shield over anyway.

    Rob

    quote:


    Originally posted by VR6SyncroMark2

    quote:


    Originally posted by ld50

    arg don’t get me started on sills… sills and bloody engine bays is all i ever seem to get to weld/paint!

    If it’s a small damaged bit repairing it might be in order but doing a couple of smaller repairs can be as much work as fitting a whole new outer sill. Looks like another call to avenue panels for a sill (£25 ish) ;) I repaired the one side of the syncro, am replacing the other side completely (after seeing how much work repairing was) and have just repaired the gti sill for the MOT… drop me a mail if you want to talk sills and bays in detail: syncronauts@googlemail.com.

    There’s an ace book you might want to get hold of called “How to restore classic car bodywork” – http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_/026-7705230-6297208?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=classic+car+bodywork

    It’s *well* worth a read – they focus on triumphs and MGs mostly so a VW should be a walk in the park compared to those rustbuckets ;) There’s some photos of my sill repairs which might be of use here:

    http://www2.plus8.net/jpegstore/uk/vwsyncro_LD50/p_thumbnails.asp?archive=Bodywork&page=1&strSearch=&pass_view=

    hope that helps :)

    B


    I just ordered a copy of the book, sounds like it will come in useful.

    Thanks again,
    Rob


    in reply to: Snow reports #2386

    The snow was good here for a day but sadly the syncro is no where near running so I was struggling like hell in a BMW (rear wheel drive is a nightmare in the snow).

    Maybe next year.

    Rob

    in reply to: Mark 2 VR6 Syncro – Progress (contains photos) #2376

    quote:


    Originally posted by ld50

    arg don’t get me started on sills… sills and bloody engine bays is all i ever seem to get to weld/paint!

    If it’s a small damaged bit repairing it might be in order but doing a couple of smaller repairs can be as much work as fitting a whole new outer sill. Looks like another call to avenue panels for a sill (£25 ish) ;) I repaired the one side of the syncro, am replacing the other side completely (after seeing how much work repairing was) and have just repaired the gti sill for the MOT… drop me a mail if you want to talk sills and bays in detail: syncronauts@googlemail.com.

    There’s an ace book you might want to get hold of called “How to restore classic car bodywork” – http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_ss_w_h_/026-7705230-6297208?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=classic+car+bodywork

    It’s *well* worth a read – they focus on triumphs and MGs mostly so a VW should be a walk in the park compared to those rustbuckets ;) There’s some photos of my sill repairs which might be of use here:

    http://www2.plus8.net/jpegstore/uk/vwsyncro_LD50/p_thumbnails.asp?archive=Bodywork&page=1&strSearch=&pass_view=

    hope that helps :)

    B


    I just ordered a copy of the book, sounds like it will come in useful.

    Thanks again,
    Rob

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 52 total)

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