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Whereabouts are you?
Email me the pictures and I’ll stick them up, if you want – diamond.hell@gmail.com
Alternatively you are welcome to email it to me and I’ll host it for you, Will (I’ll be needing it fair soon anyway!).
unless you’ve broken the shaft itself why don’t you just knock new Cv joints on, or 2nd hand ones they are the same as many other vw’s just make sure they are 90mm ones
The pas pump would have let you know if it was failing, as an engine is loaded at one particular throttel opening as the revs drop the torqe produced increases, it is possible to place quite a large load on an idling engine before it stalls, also pas pump and oil pump problems in general tend to show up as a lack of pressure first, then they start to get noisey and then shake thenslves to bits. if it was seizing you would also hear a lot of belt scream at normal driving rpm
plays up straight away or after a while ?
it may be worth connecting the pump directly to the carb and bypassing the fuel resovor ont he frount of the enigne and blocking the return pipe up to see if it makes any differance. the webbers can tolerate been connected directly to the pump tho it’s not ideal ( perburgs don’t like it tho ). if it still dose it may well be carb iceing
Is the connection for the manifold heater under the intake manifold still intact? Without that it might mess things up a bit.
iirc the center two are the main jet assemblies, the air corrector top bit has a small hole in it, unscrew the assembly and draw it up out of the carb sometimes the jet right at the bottom can become clogged with crap, the normal cause of this is the fuel reservoir or whatever you want to call it thats mounted on the front of the rocker cover, if it’s a new carb and allways had filter dirctly inline with it the jets should be fine but worth checking
The webber carb dosen’t ice up no where nearly as easily as the pierburg did.
Every winter there is all this stuff and ppl squeeking about carb iceing it rarely ever is, I had my webber ice up once that was one hell of a cold day cruising down motorway at relativly low throttle and high rpm which is what will ice a carb up
carbs ice beacuse at low throttle as air travels through them past the butterflys it is forced to expand and when a gas to expand it’s temperature drops hence it gets cold, if the air coming in is cold enuff and you make it expand it becomes very cold and and any water in the air freezes out, it’s also possible to get the petrol to freeze as well which chokes the engine and it’ll chugg to a halt. a bit of full throttle will normally clear the carb or in severe cases pull over and leave it 10 mins.
I would suggest checking the primary jet for ****e and fitting an inline filter right by the carb
I have a set of hubs and carriers for these brakes, for which £50 will do nicely. Then all you need are pads and the amster cylinder and away you go.
Lots more done. We’ve come up against a really big issue with the exhaust. This was half-expected, but we thought the pictures in the gallery meant that we would just need to cut and shut the Rallye downpipe a bit.
Oh, no, that’s not the case. Not entirely decided which manifold to use yet – the Rallye manifold puts the offside downpipe VERY close to the steering column and especially the knuckle, AND looking at the footwell clearance. The Passat manifold leaves it over the angle-drive to the rear. It appears that to allow the downpipes to come through without being too close to the shift mechanism, steering rack or angle drive it’s going to be worth cutting out a section of the tunnel and welding back in a section to effectively create a clutch foot-rest, which will give a lot more space to allow heat dissipation, which has to be the biggest issue here (after the lack of actual space).
This is a pretty radical approach to take, as the tunnel is one of the key pieces of the car that makes the shell so stiff. I’m going to go for this though as it’s not just the key to unleashing the 2.0, it means that the exhaust (in particular the tricky downpipes) will support more powerful motors, should I choose to go for them.
I’m thinking I might go cable clutch, as DannyP has, rather than the hydraulic clutch from the Passat – it’s smaller and lighter.
The main thing is to get the exhaust sorted and the car back and fighting fit for 2008 track-season.
Lots more photos on Diamondhell.com as above.
my guess is then you were trying to set it up usign the mark on the outside of the top pully. happy playing now it’s sorted
