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Thats pretty much the same with an 8 Valve.
Things to note are when all the timing marks are lined up, with the dizzy cap off you should see a line on the surface of the distributor body, the rotor arm should be pointing to that if not loosen the dizzy and turn it so it does, that is where the igniton lead for cyl 1 goes, this is all good in theory and is normally close enuff to get it running so you can fine tune the timing. but sometimes it lies because quite often the intermediate shaft jumps a tooth when your putting the belt on and there is nothing to say that if the dizzy has been replaced the new one was put in lined up with the engine at TDC.
if that appears to be the case just turn the dizzy, turning it in direction the rotor arm rotates retards the ignition timeing, the opposite way advances it. random poping out the carb says to me that sparks are arriveign on the intake stroke, thins makes me think your timeing is 180 out so it maybe worth moveing all the plug leads round 2 places on the dizzy.
if the enigne then starts to hesitate durign crankign it meas it’s tryign to fire durign the compression stroke it may even kick backwards 1/2 revolution. turn dizzy in direction of rotor arm rotation.
if it’s choughing or poping in the exhaust turn the dizzy the opposite way
Have you checked compression on the cylinders?
Do you have the earth straps all bolted up properly and know that they’re good?
the only fueling adjustment needed for your cam will be to richen the idel mixture to get things running smoother it’ll start and run on the std settings idel may be a bit bumpy tho.
Q) do you have a good spark ? ( pull the king lead and crank enigne you shoudl see a ggod strong blue spark and hear it )
when your timeing marks say the enigne is TDC, take No 1 plug out and see if the piston is actualy at the top, sometimes timeing marks can lie if the engine has been fiddeld with in the past
You have not the timing spot on then. it is very very very common for people to get the timing 180 deg out, especially the ignition timing
1) remove rocker cover
2) turn engine by hand to TDC no 1 the camshaft should be in this position
3) if it doesn’t turn the engine 1 revolution
4) remove dizzy cap and note where rotor arm is pointing put this lead to cyl No 1.
firing order is 1-3-4-2 put rest of leads on accordingly, then it’ll runJumping out of 5th gear is a favorite habit of 020 boxes normally when they are low on oil.
As for the car not moving when reverse is selected is sounds like a damaged selector mechanism inside the gearbox, box probably jams solid in the other 4 gears and reverse ?
It’s probably really worthwhile dropping the oil and looking for bits of metal and pulling the end of the gearbox off and having a look at 5th itself, if it looks like. the box is most likely knacked tho
You absolutely MUST run same-width rims front and back and same make, size and preferably wear-point tyres. If you were to fit your existing rims then you will put a constant slight drive through the VC, so it will go stiff and then tear your drivetrain apart.
All the system needs is a little difference and you’ll start breaking stuff.
Don’t do it – get same-size rims and same-size and wear-point tyres.
It does look really nice – I spent some time salivating over what is probably one of the most original and tidy Syncros I’ve seen advertised in a long time. If I didn’t already have one I’d be beating a path to your door.
COuld be the PCD in the dashboard, especially if it’s coming on at over a certain rev-point on the tacho.
Alternatively it might be a crap earth – you have replaced all of the earths, haven’t you? Be a little careful as if you have a furked earth then it can goose the new alternator.
The nuts should be the correct brass peened nutes, with the proper thick washers. Provided you find a proper fastener supplier you should be able to get these away from VW – GSF do the peened nuts.
Just in case folks are unfamiliar with the term peened – it means they’re effectively bent over at the top, so they lock in place. Use anything else and you will probably wind up with blowing manifolds.
Sounds right for a motor with a fair few miles on it, cr to miles seem to go a bit like this
6-7 bar = ( mega miles + abuse ) it’s dead on it’s feet gonna drink fuel and make no power and be a sod to start
8-9 bar = (150,000 + miles) it’s done lots of work and would like it’s valves regrinding
10- 11 = (100 – 150 ,0000 miles ) resonably healthy.
12- 13 = ( sub 100,000 miles ) very healthy.Its easiest to take head off with manifolds on. disconect exhaust manifold from downpipe by prizing the clips off while the head is on. then just unbolt head and lift off
