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On my car I’ve got a GU bottom end, with a rattly old PB head fitted to it, with a Weber and the shaved-down hedgehog DannyP’s mentioned. I’m running a standard GTI cam at the moment, but this might change before next spring.
The injector port blocking mod really is as simple as it sounds – 4p and you’re away. The head all just bolts up, but you will need to use the Syncro exhaust, including the exhaust manifold, unless you’re going to get seriously involved (isn’t that right, Danny?).
About the only thing I’m not running at the moment is a k-Jet dizzi – it’s definitely something I’m on the look-out for and with a cam should form a sort of ‘stage 1’ complete Syncro upgrade (for tightwads).
To be honest, all of these improvements have been done over an extended period, so I’ve not really noticed that much difference. The biggest (and cheapest) difference anyone will make to their Syncro out of the box is to jettison as much trim and stuff from the interior as possible. I’ve removed most of the interior from mine, so much so that it rose over an inch on the springs! This may sound like something of a dumb solution for someone using their car every day, but as a toy it’s given my motor a massive boost in speed.
The best other modification is the Weber – not only does the car breathe massively better and thus goes better, mine also gained about 10mpg vs the Pierburg.
The nice thing about this site is how focused and helpful it is. Also because members rarely meet there’s not much cliqueiness, which is good, too.
Mostly my donation will be waiting for the start of next month – bit of a big month this one!
Welcome to the site – it’s a small community, so don’t be afraid to ask away with any queries.
Are you still running the standard gearbox with the 20VT?
Microbore copper pipe works well, as does high pressure braided rubber pipe, K-Jet is 7 bar iirc so rubber hoses with an integral braid are fine.
Remove injector seat, insert 1p coin refit injector seat, job done
GTi lumps on twin 40’s have been done plenty, twin 40’s are very outdated now tho and the setup has a few major flaws on the 8v engine, it’s so tight you’ll only just get the filters in, forget ram pipes, and the brake servo gets in the way so you have to cut it defeating the point in fitting them. bike carbs however work much better, its also worth fittng an early gti ( k – jet dizzy )
I’ve now stripped this out for track use. I have sensible cars, so why not go dumb-assed with this one?
At rest:
At play:
That ‘headlight missing’ modification in full:
The main modification is this:
I’ve even vacuumed out all the crap left in the bottom since then.
Removing all that weight has made a huge difference to the way goes – it’s much MUCH faster and fun to drive. Unless you really need all that stuff in the back (for boring things like passengers ‘n’ stuff) get rid of it!
Next up (probably not until next year now) – further track modifications, aimed at improving handling, strength and stiffness of the shell.
I have a pair littering up my back garden. I think they were abandoned here by DannyP. Unless he wants ’em back then they’re yours for postage.
981.551.7D0.20
My copy was one that was last revised June 97, so it may have been revised (and part number amended) since then.
In that case you should find the single seat unbolts with four bolts and you can just bolt in a double seat. You can get them pretty easily, just make sure you get a late one with a three point belt in the middle. Also, if you have a Caravelle then you’ll need to remove, or cut down the speaker pod – the seat comes further out at the side to make room for the middle seat. Make sure you get the bolts that come with the double seat as they may be different to the single seat.
I do have an english handbook here, but I only have one – ask any questions and I’ll furnish you with any answers you may need, as best I can.
Just ask for donations as an announcement, or sticky at the top of the forums. This avoids any work to create donate buttons etc etc. I think you’ll find you might create a load of hassle trying to collect money, or people will just start posting ebay links etc to avoid the cost – some people will do anything to avoid paying and there’s a bunch of other sites I’d advertise stuff on before putting it on here, unless it was a whole car.
With a voluntary system if people value what’s here then they’ll contribute. If they don’t then we’ll know this is more of a bunch of people who love some slightly odd-ball VWs, messing about somewhere that’s easy to link up with other people of a similar mind.
I’ll happily toss £20 into the pot to ensure this site is maintained. It’s important for me as people with stuff for Syncros might show up trying to sell stuff I want.
I don’t know chris, I built my last GU engine with very little care from bits I found in the garage and fitted it the same day and thrashed it for 6mths til it gave up!
I never quite worked out how it lasted that long, had a serious thirst for oil but it pulled well to about 6100 – 6300 then gave up gti used to pull on to just over 7
